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New Door Build - brnhornt - 07-21-2020

Hi Everyone,

I know that several here have constructed entry doors and I'm about to head down a similar path.  This won't be an "entry door" because it's going to be in a closet in my basement....I would prefer to to be solid.  I'm replacing a few windows in my house next month, so I am going to salvage one of the glass units....and this is what I'm shooting for:

[attachment=28448]

The opening is currently roughed 2x6 construction....I'm just wondering if there are any severe gotchas that I need to be on the lookout before getting started on this kind of project.

Thanks for any input...
Kevin


RE: New Door Build - jteneyck - 07-21-2020

As long as the sealed glass unit has tempered (or other approved safety) glass in it you're good to go putting it in the door.  No gotchas that I can see.  Should be a straight forward door build, whether using solid wood or stave core plus veneer skins.  

John


RE: New Door Build - rwe2156 - 07-22-2020

Two words: Pinned tenons.


RE: New Door Build - jteneyck - 07-22-2020

(07-22-2020, 09:30 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Two words: Pinned tenons.
Truly overkill for an interior door.  

John


RE: New Door Build - brnhornt - 07-23-2020

Thanks guys.  Being new to building any kind of door....does anyone have a link that they'd recommend on the general process?  I know how to build the physical door itself...but I'm thinking more of planning/fabrication of the jamb and the process of installing the hinges.

Thanks again!


RE: New Door Build - Cooler - 07-24-2020

I would note that the vertical stiles will expand and contract seasonally. 

I've always operated on the understanding that you can glue up to  3½ wide in any panel without risk of splitting the panel. 

I could not find an image on line for a door, but the breadboard illustrates that well.  If your bottom rail is just five or six inches wide and you use a tenon of 3" width, that would not be an issue.  But if the rail is 12" you cannot use two tenons and glue them in place, or that bottom rail will split.

The 3½" dimension is the one I've always heard;  perhaps others use a different number, but understand the issue and you are OK. 

The nice thing about barn doors, is that they experience non of the racking forces a hinged door does, and simple joinery works fine for them.






RE: New Door Build - jteneyck - 07-24-2020

(07-23-2020, 08:34 AM)brnhornt Wrote: Thanks guys.  Being new to building any kind of door....does anyone have a link that they'd recommend on the general process?  I know how to build the physical door itself...but I'm thinking more of planning/fabrication of the jamb and the process of installing the hinges.

Thanks again!

You can download the Architectural Woodwork Standards for free at this link.  Section 9 is devoted to doors with nearly everything you'd ever want to know.  

John


RE: New Door Build - Kansas City Fireslayer - 07-25-2020

I would consider a 1.5” stub tenon and mortise construction for the frame.


RE: New Door Build - Cooler - 07-27-2020

I built a screen door using floating tenons (beadLOCK jig from Rockler).  It went well.  It is slower than a Festool Domino machine but probably just as strong.  

I used one tenon for the top and middle rail, and two for the wider bottom rail.  I kept the two in the bottom rail less than 3½" distant (outside dimension).

The door is up for over a year and is holding up well.  But of course a screen door does not carry much weight. 

The beadLOCK jig made it easy.  Just $30.00 from Rockler.  But not a fast operation (compared to biscuits or dominoes)

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=beadlock+jig


RE: New Door Build - jcclark - 04-21-2021

You need flat straight lumber for that.
A large jointer is a must.