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+-- Thread: I need advice (/showthread.php?tid=7357758)
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I need advice - SceneryMaker - 09-15-2020
The boss wants a segmented piece just like a pic she found. The problem is that some of the rings are dyed and adjacent rings are not. Since I don't know how to keep dye or stain from bleeding, I assume these rings were dyed before gluing up and turning.
My question is this: Does anybody know how I can get dye to penetrate my rings deeply enough that the dyed surface doesn't get turned away?
RE: I need advice - greenacres2 - 09-15-2020
Stabilizing with dyed Cactus Juice comes to mind--but in my vacuum chamber i'd only be able to go about 10"-11" long. Would want to do all my common colors in one batch so the penetration would be similar.
earl
RE: I need advice - Wildwood - 09-15-2020
Why can’t you use different color woods & species in your segmented turning? Yes will still have to pay attention and not let darker color woods bleed into lighter color woods.
RE: I need advice - Arlin Eastman - 09-15-2020
I can only suggest after cutting the certain segments for a ring or several rings put the segmented pieces in the vac chamber with the dye and DNA so it really soaks in and then put the rings together.
RE: I need advice - iclark - 09-15-2020
(09-15-2020, 11:33 AM)SceneryMaker Wrote: The boss wants a segmented piece just like a pic she found. The problem is that some of the rings are dyed and adjacent rings are not. Since I don't know how to keep dye or stain from bleeding, I assume these rings were dyed before gluing up and turning.
My question is this: Does anybody know how I can get dye to penetrate my rings deeply enough that the dyed surface doesn't get turned away?
Some woods suck up dye easier and deeper than others. The ones that you can take a straight-grained stick and blow bubbles into a glass of water will take dye in deeper/faster than closed cell woods.
The gotchas include size and shape changes to the cut segments as you take dry wood and saturate it with moisture (assuming you are using water-based dyes). Even if you wait for the wood to dry again, it may not go back to the original shape or be glue-ready without some touch up on each segment.
Can you post a copy of that pic she found? It might give us some ideas.
Since you say some rings are dyed, it might be a ringmaster type bowl. That can reduce how far the dye needs to penetrate the blank (since you will be removing less wood when doing the turning), but it will also make it harder to uniformly dye the ring.
RE: I need advice - MichaelMouse - 09-16-2020
(09-15-2020, 11:33 AM)SceneryMaker Wrote: The boss wants a segmented piece just like a pic she found. The problem is that some of the rings are dyed and adjacent rings are not. Since I don't know how to keep dye or stain from bleeding, I assume these rings were dyed before gluing up and turning.
My question is this: Does anybody know how I can get dye to penetrate my rings deeply enough that the dyed surface doesn't get turned away?
Tape masks and gel stains on finished turning? Experiment a bit and see.
RE: I need advice - SceneryMaker - 09-20-2020
iclark asked for a pic. I need silver (or maybe gray), bright orange, pale orange, and pale green rings.
RE: I need advice - Dusty Workshop - 09-25-2020
Fortunately it is entire rings and not random segments.
You could put brown paper between the layers, rough turn and then break apart the rings for dying. Then glue it up and turn to final shape.
RE: I need advice - iclark - 09-25-2020
(09-25-2020, 11:19 AM)Dusty Workshop Wrote: Fortunately it is entire rings and not random segments.
You could put brown paper between the layers, rough turn and then break apart the rings for dying. Then glue it up and turn to final shape.
You and I are looking at different pictures.
RE: I need advice - Dusty Workshop - 09-26-2020
They say that everybody sees colors differently. To me the silver / green / red / orange dyed segments are in continuous Rings. There are not dyed pieces that are peppered throughout.