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+-- Thread: Planning end grain (/showthread.php?tid=7358451)
RE: Planning end grain - amtc - 10-22-2020
I use. LN #9 for planing end grain. Works well for me. Too bad LN stopped making it, people thought it was only good for shooting boards. Many more uses for it.
RE: Planning end grain - David Charlesworth - 10-23-2020
(10-22-2020, 11:45 PM)amtc Wrote: I use. LN #9 for planing end grain. Works well for me. Too bad LN stopped making it, people thought it was only good for shooting boards. Many more uses for it.
Interesting about the L-N No 9.
We frequently had to plane the end grain of bench top slabs. 16" x 4"
The plane which we found best was a 5 1/2 with replacement blade. (Hock A2 )
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
RE: Planning end grain - MauleSkinner - 10-23-2020
“tablesawtom” Wrote:Technically I think I could bed it at 31 degrees and make my primary angle on the blade at 30 Degrees and it would work. Personally I think that 31 degrees is a little to instream but I am wondering if say 35 degrees would work.That’s what I did on my shooting plane...bedded at 35 degrees, bevel down. Haven’t used it in recent history, but pictures below of the plane as well as a closeup of the iron to show the relief angle.
RE: Planning end grain - MauleSkinner - 10-23-2020
Ugh...I have to figure out posting pictures. Here’s the plane.
RE: Planning end grain - bandit571 - 10-24-2020
My "shooting board" in use....
[attachment=30479]
"Factory edge" wasn't square. WR #62 squared the end grain up.....
Normally, ends are cut square over on the Stanley No. 358 mitre box, without any need to plane the end grain.
Nothing fancy, just a few quick swipes, and back to work......sometimes I might use the Stanley No. 60-1/2 block plane....other times it might be a #3 or #4 smooth plane...just depends on the size of the board..
RE: Planning end grain - tablesawtom - 10-24-2020
Again thanks for the comments, With pictures and things I know it took time which is the most valuable thing you posse. I found it interesting that David and Rob Cosman both prefer the 5 1/2 And I was wondering why a 5 1/2 and not a 6.
I also thought it interesting that Maulskinner did his in 35 degrees. I have steel angles in my tool box in 5 degree increments, that is why I am considering 35 verses 37 degrees. It is good to know tha t 35 degrees works as well as 37.I am sure that when Stanley did the R @ D ( research and development) that 12 degrees worked out the best for production and hence became the standard.
Just for the record my blade from Veritas is A2.
Anyway thanks for taking the time to respond and I am sure that there is still a few nuggets out there so please feel free to continue to respond.
I will keep you posted on how I am doing when I get started.
Tom
RE: Planning end grain - Steve Altman - 10-25-2020
(10-22-2020, 09:43 AM)tablesawtom Wrote: First of all, I go out of my way to avoid planning end grain. But there is a time and a place for it. Also there s a lot of difference between head knowledge and and a lot of actual experience planning end grain In other words I would like to hear from some experienced woodworkers as to what actually works for them.
First of all Head Knowledge:
A standard angle block plane is bedded at 20 degrees and if it is sharpened at 25 degree, then the shear angle would be 45 degrees which is the same angle as a bench plane. And if sharpening at a steeper angle of 30 degrees or more, it would be advantageous to working squirrely grain. A standard angle block would no have any advantage over a standard bench plane.
A low angle block ( bevel up plane) is bedded at 12 degrees and if sharpened at 25 degrees, the shear angle would be 37 degrees. If sharpened at 30 degrees the shear angle would be 43 degrees. The 43 degree angle is so close to standard bench plane ( bevel down) with a shear angle is 45 degrees, that the 2 degree difference would be a moot point
I can see the advantages of a low angle bench plane ( bevel up ) or a low angle block ( again bevel up) but a 25 degree cutting (shear angle ) is not as strong as a 30 degree angle and will not hold up as long.
There is a difference between head knowledge, which includes I used a sharpened block plane to cut a piece of end grain once which makes me an expert and actual experience.
My question is to a person who cuts end grain on a regular basis ( taken with a grain of salt) what works for you and why? and does a 37 degree shear angle work better in end gain, if at all?
Tom
Wet the end grain
RE: Planning end grain - tablesawtom - 10-25-2020
(10-25-2020, 12:50 AM)Steve Altman Wrote: Wet the end grain
details on your end grain wetting.
Tom
RE: Planning end grain - Steve Altman - 10-25-2020
(10-25-2020, 06:02 PM)tablesawtom Wrote: details on your end grain wetting.
Tom
Hi,
I'm not sure what you mean. A long time ago, (50 years?) an old guy I knew in a cabinet shop was watching me plane some end grain. He said "Wet it." So I did. With a rag. It made it easier. Try it. I mean your blade still has to be sharp. Low angles are better than high. Real tight mouth is good. You'll still have to deal with the far end splitting out (unless the mouth is really, really tight). Etc., etc. But the wood will be easier to plane.
I don't know why. Probably expands the fibers some, or the uptake of water softens them somewhat. Who knows?
BTW, you do nice work on those planes...
RE: Planning end grain - Tony Z - 10-26-2020
Try using mineral spirits to wet end grain.