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+-- Thread: Outdoor Shutter Design Help (/showthread.php?tid=7362981)
Outdoor Shutter Design Help - bpatters69 - 05-23-2021
Hello All,
I need to build and install outdoor shutters on our house... honey do list.
The picture below is the design I plan to follow. It is not too difficult but I will have to build a jig to cut out the horizontal openings you see at the top. I am not planning to cut out the horizontal openings all the way through as that would compromise the structure. I am planning to use 3/4" material but I am not sure what type of wood to use. My wife wants me to match the wood (as best I can) to the new garage door we are buying. I may go with Spanish Cedar, Plain old Cedar or Cypress.
As you can see, there is one stretcher at the top and a support piece at the bottom. I was thinking of adding a stretcher to the bottom but I guess it looks ok the way it is. As an alternative, I may skip the support piece at the bottom and instead install another stretcher. Depends on what SWMBO thinks.
For glue up, I plan to glue the outside vertical pieces but not the middle piece to the stretcher. I kind of see this as a panel door where the rails and stiles get glued together but the panel floats. Anyone agree or disagree? I live in SE Florida so there is not as much variation in the temperature. Its either hot or really hot. The shutters will be faux and I will attach them to the cinderblock via Tapcons.
Any other suggestions.
Thanks, Bill
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - jteneyck - 05-23-2021
If you plan to screw it to the wall then there are few structural issues to be concerned with; any design you like will be ok as long as the boards can expand/contract as they want. I would put some standoffs on the back side so that air can circulate freely.
One alternative to solid wood would be MDO or Extira (sp) Using a panel would allow you to route those openings all the way through if you wanted to. You could add solid wood stiles and battens, etc. w/o worry of expansion issues. Of course, this assumes you are going to paint them.
John
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - Gary G™ - 05-23-2021
The bottom batten is going to collect water and cause rot.
I think a lower stretcher slightly taller than the top stretcher would be better.
In fact, the top one looks a little too narrow for my taste.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - joe1086 - 05-24-2021
If you go with a stretcher on the bottom, bevel the top edge to shed water.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - bpatters69 - 06-01-2021
Thanks for the feedback.
I should have mentioned, I plan to stain the wood to match (or come close) our new garage door.
I have been looking at IPE, Spanish Cedar and Cypress.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - bpatters69 - 12-04-2021
Hello all. Here is the almost finished product. The pieces on the right will be installed horizontally at the bottom of each shutter. I may put on another coat of stain to see if that even things out a bit but I don't mind it the won't is now.
Each shutter weighs about 20 pounds. What are the votes for how to install them in concrete block? Red Head has these nails in a sleeve where you basically drill a hole and then pound the nail and the case expands. Seems very easy. I could do Tapcons. Hilti has a carriage bolt type faster but instead of pounding, you turn a bolt and the case expands.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - bpatters69 - 12-04-2021
And now for the attachment.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - MstrCarpenter - 12-04-2021
(12-04-2021, 03:19 PM)bpatters69 Wrote: Hello all. Here is the almost finished product. The pieces on the right will be installed horizontally at the bottom of each shutter. I may put on another coat of stain to see if that even things out a bit but I don't mind it the won't is now.
Each shutter weighs about 20 pounds. What are the votes for how to install them in concrete block? Red Head has these nails in a sleeve where you basically drill a hole and then pound the nail and the case expands. Seems very easy. I could do Tapcons. Hilti has a carriage bolt type faster but instead of pounding, you turn a bolt and the case expands.
I vote for 2"- 3"- #10 S.S. panhead tapping screws. Spray paint the heads if desired (something other than Tapcon blue). Push plastic rawls into holes instead of attempting to thread concrete. I have added Tapcon screws to the list of items i have no interest of ever using again.
I would make a full size template with the required holes and use it to mark the holes on the shutters and the wall. Sure, we could use a tape and framing square, but let's do that once; on a work bench, not up on a wall. Using a template also assures me that the first time i go up a ladder with the shutter it's ready to run the screws in. I'd rather drop a scrap of 1/4" ply. than the custom built shutter.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - Gary G™ - 12-05-2021
I use 3/8” Redhead expanding bolts like the Hilti’s you describe.
RE: Outdoor Shutter Design Help - bpatters69 - 12-15-2021
(12-05-2021, 08:47 AM)Gary G™ Wrote: I use 3/8” Redhead expanding bolts like the Hilti’s you describe.
Thanks.
How long of a bolt would you get?
For the top of the shutter, the material thickness will be 3/4" but the bottom will be 1 1/2" thick of material as I will be drilling through the shutter and a horizontal piece that is also 3/4" thick.
My house is made of concrete block. Concrete blocks are supposed to be 1 1/4" thick. I don't think they fill them with concrete as I have used Tapcons in other places and I can tell from drilling that after about an inch, I am drilling into air.
So assuming I am not going to bury the heads, I need a bolt that is 2" for the top and 2 3/4" for the bottom. I know they don't make a 2 3/4" bolt so I am guessing 2" bolt for the top and 3" for the bottom? I want to be careful that the expansion part is not hitting the hollow part of the block or does it matter?