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Re-saw blade - edgy - 11-29-2021
Hey folks,
I gotta cut some veneer from 4" cherry.
The band saw is 1 hp Griz 14". What blade configuration would work best?
Thanks.
RE: Re-saw blade - mr_skittle - 11-29-2021
Something with 3 or 4 teeth per inch and as wide as your saw can accommodate. A steel blade will work fine if you're not too into cutting veneer, but if you want to make it a habit, I understand the carbide blades are top-notch.
RE: Re-saw blade - jteneyck - 11-29-2021
If it has a cast iron frame then a 1/2" x 3 tpi is your best option, even if the manufacturer says it can use a 3/4" blade. You'll be able run higher tension on the 1/2" blade and that's the #1 requirement (after a sharp blade) when resawing. If it has a steel frame then you may be able to go up to a 3/4" x 3 tpi blade, but the 1/2" x 3tpi would still work well.
I agree with Mr. S.; a standard carbon steel blade will work fine unless you need to cut hundreds of feet. If you do, a bi-metal blade would be a better choice.
John
RE: Re-saw blade - Cabinet Monkey - 11-29-2021
(11-29-2021, 04:22 PM)edgy Wrote: Hey folks,
I gotta cut some veneer from 4" cherry.
The band saw is 1 hp Griz 14". What blade configuration would work best?
Thanks.
This is a pretty good choice for your saw :
1/2” width.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx
RE: Re-saw blade - kurt18947 - 11-29-2021
(11-29-2021, 09:19 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: This is a pretty good choice for your saw :
1/2” width.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx
Woodslicer would be my choice for that saw. Only knock I've seen on Woodslicer is that they don't stay sharp as long as some others but they'll probably stay sharp long enough. Another blade that intrigues me is SuperCut's Woodsaver resaw blade. Ain't cheap though; 105" is $78.96 plus shipping & tax if any. Their advertising is a little deceptive IMO. They're advertised as carbide but AFAIK they're really not - they have carbide particles embedded in the steel where what most people think of carbide blades are brazed on solid carbide teeth.
I do have SuperCut's premium gold 1/2" 3 TPI blades and they wear and cut well. I'd say in terms of durability they're similar to bimetal. The difference in the resaw blades I think is less set in the teeth. The kerf is narrower so less waste.
https://supercutbandsaw.com/collections/all/products/3-hook-ws-woodsaver-carbide-resaw-band-saw-blade-for-woodu
RE: Re-saw blade - edgy - 11-29-2021
I have a new 1/2' X 3 tpi hook blade. Looks like it's gonna be the winner.
Thanks all.
RE: Re-saw blade - FS7 - 11-30-2021
(11-29-2021, 10:23 PM)edgy Wrote: I have a new 1/2' X 3 tpi hook blade. Looks like it's gonna be the winner.
Thanks all.
I have an inexpensive Olson blade of the same configuration on mine. It actually works very well - much better than I expected for $12.
In my experience bandsaw alignment and tuning is far more important than blade selection. A good resaw blade will not have much trouble cutting as it's designed to clear a lot of waste and stay cool. Other blades work well (and in fact produce cleaner cuts) but have to work a lot harder. You can feed very, very slowly with a higher TPI blade, but the 3 TPI blade is right.
Keep it tight and use dust collection. I don't always hook mine up for one cut or two but resawing creates a lot of dust in the cabinets. It will easily get thrown by the bottom wheel and create pretty little plumes of airborne sawdust.
RE: Re-saw blade - rwe2156 - 12-03-2021
Need good tension for re-saving. Keep checking the tension. That’s type saw can flex.
RE: Re-saw blade - Cabinet Monkey - 12-04-2021
(12-03-2021, 10:12 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Need good tension for re-saving. Keep checking the tension. That’s type saw can flex.
Good advice - but before you even get to this stage you should make sure you choose a blade that your saw can actually tension properly.
