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Storage cabinet - D_Harris - 01-29-2022
I'm building what will amount to a stand-alone cabinet. The sides, top, and floor will be 3/4" thick plywood, and the 7-1/2" square compartments will have divisions that are 1/4" thick. (I'll have four blocks under the cabinet floor made from 2 by 4s for leg levelers, and 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" a toe-kick).
If it is best to use both glue and pocket screws, should I use 3/4" plywood for the back also?
And since I'll be storing pieces that are 24"3/8" long inside it, what should be the minimum amount of space between the back and the doors?
(Below is the simple version of the cabinet).
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
RE: Storage cabinet - museumguy - 01-29-2022
As for the back, 1/2" should be fine. If you want to put a lot of stuff ion the cabinet, 3/4" would be better. I see that most parts are dadoed into the sides, good choice for strength.
As for the amount of space between the back and the doors, allow 25". Cut the sides, top and bottom at 25 1/2". If you consider a 1/2" back, you have 25". If you use a 3/4" back, you have 24 3/4" inside, more than adequate.
RE: Storage cabinet - Halfathumb - 01-29-2022
Why 3/4 or 1/2 back? Why not 1/4"? That's what I use on all most of my cabinets.
Jim
RE: Storage cabinet - D_Harris - 01-29-2022
(01-29-2022, 03:10 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: Why 3/4 or 1/2 back? Why not 1/4"? That's what I use on all most of my cabinets.
Jim
The original plan was to use 1/4" plywood for the back, but to allow more pocket screws for increased stability I was thinking I'd need to go thicker.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
RE: Storage cabinet - Hank Knight - 01-29-2022
I agree with Halfthumb: 1/4" plywood should be plenty strong enough for the back of your cabinet. if you glue it and brad it into a rebate all the way around the perimeter fo the back of the cabinet it should be rock solid and keep the case square. No pocket screws needed.
RE: Storage cabinet - Cabinet Monkey - 01-29-2022
Pocket screws are not really going to add “stability” to a back panel.
RE: Storage cabinet - MstrCarpenter - 01-30-2022
Guessing at the measurements, the entire cabinet, including a back and plywood doors could be made from a single sheet but you may need to use thick edge-banding to maintain 24-3/8' inside. Your plan also shows a dado for the bottom shelf but a butt joint for the top??? If you're not planning to cut dados/grooves in the back for dividers, than 1/4" ply. nailed into a rabbet will be sufficient. Why would you even consider pocket screws would be needed?
RE: Storage cabinet - D_Harris - 01-30-2022
(01-29-2022, 10:58 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: I agree with Halfthumb: 1/4" plywood should be plenty strong enough for the back of your cabinet. if you glue it and brad it into a rebate all the way around the perimeter fo the back of the cabinet it should be rock solid and keep the case square. No pocket screws needed.
I thought about rabbets at the rear when I entertained the idea of using a 1/4" thick back, but that would reduce the internal space by 1/4", giving me only an 1/8" space between the panels I need to store and the inside of the closed doors.
I have 2'x 4' Birch plywood I had intended to use for the sides. (The face frame would add 3/4 inches to that 2 feet).
(01-29-2022, 11:38 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: Pocket screws are not really going to add “stability” to a back panel.
So, I guess I can get away with just gluing the entire cabinet together.
(01-30-2022, 12:09 AM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Guessing at the measurements, the entire cabinet, including a back and plywood doors could be made from a single sheet but you may need to use thick edge-banding to maintain 24-3/8' inside. Your plan also shows a dado for the bottom shelf but a butt joint for the top??? If you're not planning to cut dados/grooves in the back for dividers, than 1/4" ply. nailed into a rabbet will be sufficient. Why would you even consider pocket screws would be needed?
I can't quite make the cabinet out of a single 4'x 8' sheet. Especially since the drawing above was only a basic example of what I want to do. The attached image below is the closest thing I could find on the internet, but I'm not building a podium or hostess station. Nevertheless, the sides and rear will raise above the top surface, and the doors will only cover the 12 compartments.
I assume you are referring to the very top when you say "butt joint". I'm my attempt to make the drawing as simple as possible I omitted the raised sides and rear, which will add several more inches to the total height.
And I mentioned the problem with using a Rabbet at the rear, but yes, I wanted to cut Dadoes in the back for the compartment dividers. I'm assuming the best way to go about making the compartments is to cut 1/4" slots halfway through each and then fit the horizontal to the vertical pieces.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
RE: Storage cabinet - MstrCarpenter - 01-30-2022
Now I see why you were considering a 3/4" back attached with pocket screws. Just a thought. Sometimes I add 1/4" sliced veneer pyl. to the back of island and peninsular cabinets. 3/4' wide edge-banding applied to the edge of the ply. and the side of the cabinet makes it look more like solid wood. This would also cover the 1/4" dados cut in the back panel that would be exposed if the back was surface mounted to get the depth you need.
RE: Storage cabinet - Halfathumb - 02-08-2022
(01-30-2022, 10:52 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Now I see why you were considering a 3/4" back attached with pocket screws. Just a thought. Sometimes I add 1/4" sliced veneer pyl. to the back of island and peninsular cabinets. 3/4' wide edge-banding applied to the edge of the ply. and the side of the cabinet makes it look more like solid wood. This would also cover the 1/4" dados cut in the back panel that would be exposed if the back was surface mounted to get the depth you need.I never thought of putting a back on that way. I just inserted the 1/4" back into a rabbet on both sides, top & bottom. Makes for a good firm case.
Jim