+- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: Router lift recommendations and setup (/showthread.php?tid=7374112)
Router lift recommendations and setup - davco - 10-18-2023
I'm working on enhancing my current router table to incorporate a router lift
but I have an older Freud FT2000E Plunge router which does not adapt well
to any of the current router lifts.
One technical sales guy at Hvalley Tools recommended going with the Triton TRA001 dual mode
router that's both a plunge router and has a hand crank for router table use. I have seen some some mixed
reviews though on the quality of Triton, one guy had problems with the base being flat.
Anyway, if you guys have any suggestions on the best config /set up for a router lift, I'm all ears.
I guess I could buy a new motor and lift if that's the best way to go, buy once cry once...
Thanks in advance
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - JDuke - 10-18-2023
The triton is a well thought out router, it does several things that lifts do well such as above table bit changes, fine adjustments from above or below table.
It also has a way to move disengage the lift screw for rapid large moves something most lifts don’t. Some would argue that it may not be as finely adjustable as most lifts. There’s some validity to that argument.
On a budget the triton certainly deserves more than a quick glance.
I have three tritons two in cast iron tables and one in an aluminum table all work wonderfully.
One caveat, you do need to reach below table to lock and unlock height adjustment. Also need to reach under to turn switch off to allow it to be raised high enough for bit changes.
I also have 2 PC 7518s in digits read out lifts in cast iron tables they are also good setups.
Can do above table bit changes. Without turning router switch off.
Do take longer for moving up or down long distances.
Still a great option but more costly.
As you might’ve imagined I recommend at least three router tables.
If your doing cabinet doors I like to leave rail bit setup in one, stile but in another and panel raiser in a third until the project is complete. That way if I have to remake a door it’s going to be the same.
And yes that’s what I do in my hobby shop.
If you only have room for a single router table, then I’d consider a single table with different inserts.
If I were starting over with the knowledge I have now, I’d get three Tritons with inserts for a single table before I bought three lifts for the same table (see budget concerns ).
That’s just me, your wants and needs are probably considerably different.
Duke
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - davco - 10-18-2023
Thanks Duke
What model Tritons do you have? What's your impression of their quality?
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - JDuke - 10-18-2023
I have the TRA001 the 3 1/4hp for a while I kept a price watch with camelcamelcamel and when they got under $250 I’d buy one, so I have three or four now.
I’m pretty happy with their quality
I don’t run a production shop so I can’t say how they would hold up in that environment but they have done well in a hone shop.
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - Tapper - 10-18-2023
I have two router tables (don't ask me why) with two different lifts. I have the original Woodpecker PRL in one table, with a Porter Cable 7518 in it (it is a beast but I don't think it's being made any longer). I've had this combo for 20+ years and it has served me well.
The other table is an Incra setup. I made the cabinet in the shop but decided to buy the Incra top and also bought an Incra MAST-R-LIFT router lift to go with it. I also have a PC 7518 in this table. Of the two the MAST-R-LIFT is clearly my favorite. Easier to use, love the magnetic rings, like the ease of their raising and lowering
mechanism and generally just a nicer and more convenient lift to use IMO. I also have this fence system and can attest to its accuracy and ease of use. A few years ago I made a complete set of shop built-in cabinets that involved 20+ drawers. Dovetailed them all using this setup and the Incra dovetail system.
The other thing I can attest to is Incra customer service - excellent IMO. The learning curve on the dovetails was a little steep and I made more than one call to them seeking clarification and advice. Always a helpful attitude and very patient. I also noticed that with this lift they list several router alternatives, including the Triton. It seems to get high marks on this forum consistently.
HTH and good luck!
Doug
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - kurt18947 - 10-19-2023
There is an option that works with the Freud FT2000E. I know because I have one. Router raizer works with plunge only routers which most lifts can struggle with - most involve removing the motor from the base. The biggest shortcoming of router raizer IMO is that it doesn't have real fine adjustment. The lead screw is 3/8 -16 threading so one full turn of the screw moves the cutter 1/16", half turn 1/32, quarter turn 1/64" etc. The router raizer was pioneered by a company called router technologies. I entered the address and got a 'not found' message. I suspect they may have been purchased by Rockler but don't know it for sure. Rockler does sell them.
https://www.amazon.com/Router-Raizer/dp/B0000E6TNM
I did change one thing on the installation. The directions I have said to remove the plunge spring. I did that initially and found that if I used the plunge lock on the FT2000E without the spring installed, the bit would tilt a little bit when engaging the lock. Removing the spring does make the depth adjustment easier to turn. I reinstalled the plunge spring and found the bit didn't tilt when engaging the plunge lock. Another benefit to leaving the spring in is that it makes the router raizer's depth adjustment a bit harder to turn. That adds some resistance to the screw turning due to vibration when in use so I usually don't use the router's plunge lock unless I'm running a lot of stock and want to be sure the cutter depth doesn't change.
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - davco - 10-19-2023
Thanks Kurt
What did you do for a router plate?
I currently have a 3/8" lexan plate I made, should I reuse and just drill a hole through it for the lift crank? If so any tips for aligning the hole?
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - ajkoontz - 10-19-2023
I have(had) a Hitachi M12 plunge router in a table for many years and it was OK, but I never loved the adjustment. So based on my experience i wouldn't go with a plunge router set-up in a table, I would get a lift. I bought a lift that works with my M12, but yet to install it so I can't comment with first hand experience on this set-up and I don't think they even make M12's anymore. Anyway, when I was researching the lift I was looking at router options and decided if I was starting with nothing, I would go with a Triton router motor and a lift. Again, not first hand recommendation but that's pretty much the on-line consensus. That said, if I ever come across a NOS PC 7518 then I'm buying that.
EDIT: To clarify, I'm taking about the Triton router based on the 7518, not the plunge version. It's currently $300 at Rockler. With a JessEm, you're looking at north of $700 so that's my buy once cry once recommendation. Otherwise I'd go with what the tool store guy recommended.
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - R Clark - 10-19-2023
Like JDuke, I have a TRA001. It does well for my hobbyist needs.
There are some inconveniences as JDuke pointed out. That below-the-table depth lock has been a source of some frustration for me; the associated locking mechanism broke once. I was able to fix it myself with the assistance of an Alex Snodgrass video and a part that Snodgrass linked to a source. Otherwise, parts can be a problem as I haven't found a decent Triton parts source that's in the US.
I use a Kreg router table plate that was pre-drilled for the Triton.
If I was to do it again, would I use the Triton? I don't know. Maybe not. I liked the price point for the initial Triton install on the Router Table. I would like some of the greater precision and conveniences that are likely available with other router lift offerings. However, the benefits of those improvements aren't enough to make me go through a redo (and added cost) of upgrading my router table.
RE: Router lift recommendations and setup - rwe2156 - 10-19-2023
My first set up was a Hitachi M12V and a RouterRazer. I built a big kitchen with it, but I had no idea now much more accurate and pleasant experience a decent router lift was.
My next was a Triton. I'll tell you my experience with Triton and you can do your own due diligence. I had a TRA001 in a table for maybe a year, and I started noticing everytime I unlocked it to change the height, the bit would drop.
It gradually got so worse that the bit drop was almost 1/8". I attributed this to backlash in the height adjustment hear mechanism.
I called Triton about it and they told me (quote/unquote) "That's kind of the nature of the beast." As you can imagine, that was not a satisfactory answer to me!! They offered a repair service up in VA which I would have to pay shipping to and from.
I declined that, and instead decided to for once and for all buy a decent setup. All that said, I've heard of other people using them with no problem like that. It's possible they have redesigned the mechanism. Mine is probably 10 years old.
That journey of frustration ended with I bought a Jessem MastRLift and PowerTek router motor. I opted for the remote speed control, but I think this is standard now. I'm thoroughly happy with it and have long since forgotten how much it cost.