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Machinist for sholder bolt - anwalt2 - 07-30-2024

I have a new to me Delta 14in band saw model 8-30C.  Serial # suggest manufacture in 1952.  This saw has the slow speed gear drive and 4-step pullies for sawing steel.  

One of the shoulder bolts that attach the wheel covers apparently vibrated the female threads in the lower casting the point that the 3/8 -16 threads on the shoulder bolt no longer hold the wheel cover in place.  

My plan is to replace the oem shoulder bolt with a bolt having 7/16 - 14 threads on the casting end while having the standard 3/8 -16 threads on the end attaching the wheel covers using the original threaded knobs.

The shoulder bolts have a total length of 3 1/2in.  threads on each end are 1/2in long, leaving the  central 5/8 in diameter shoulder portion 2 1/2in long.  

Now the question.  Is there a machinist among us who would turn a shoulder bolt?  I can tap the 3/8 and 7/16 threads, but I do not have access to a metal turning lathe for turning the 3/8 and 7/16 ends on a 5/8 shaft.   

This is a paying proposition.  I will pay by check the agreed price.  Machinist keeps the bolt until she/he is satisfied the check is good before shipping the bolt.  

any takers?  Private messages may be the best means of concluding discussions.   

thx,  tom


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - stav - 07-31-2024

Something like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165705610504

If I were to try to make something like that I would probably start out with a coupler nut and drill and tap for the end threads. Probably the easiest thing unless you want it to look original.


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - anwalt2 - 07-31-2024

(07-31-2024, 05:14 AM)stav Wrote: Something like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165705610504

If I were to try to make something like that I would probably start out with a coupler nut and drill and tap for the end threads. Probably the easiest thing unless you want it to look original.

Stav,  

The shoulder bolt shown is like what I need to replace.  The description does not provide the dimensions, so I cannot be certain.  Certainly looks like different thread diameters on the ends.  I think each end on my bolts are 3/8 - 16.  I will check later today.  

I will be embarrassed if a bolt from ebay will work.  

Thank you for directing me to ebay. 

_____________________

So I am embarrassed.  I removed a bolt.  It looks exactly like the those on Ebay for the 14in saw.  

The end for the casting is 7/16.  The wheel cover end is 3/8 - 16.  I had been usint a 3/8 - 16 all thread with locked nuts to form a shoulder for the wheel cover to rest on.  I will try a 7/16 all thread if I can find one.  To test the deeper  threads in the casting.  

Thanks to all who responded.  
tom


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - greenacres2 - 07-31-2024

Perhaps not elegant, but if the threads on both ends are the same...could a 3/8-16 x 3 1/2" threaded stud work with a suitable bushing or nuts & washers to provide the needed spacing? You could probably find a threaded stud with a hex cup in one end to help with seating it. At McMaster-Carr the search would probably be "hex drive threaded stud" or just "threaded stud" and hex-drive should be one of the results.
earl


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - jteneyck - 07-31-2024

That bolt probably carries vary little load.  I might consider JB Weld with the current bolt first.  

I have what I think is the same saw.  It's a very versatile little machine.  I don't cut metal with it often, but it did a great job when I have needed to do so.  Cleanup isn't fun, however.  

John


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - Grandpa Dave - 07-31-2024

I'd recommend installing a 3/8" helicoil. I've used them for years. Kits also available on Amazon or quite likely at your local NAPA Store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126414898875?epid=11017005643&itmmeta=01J44K4XR5SMVX5W5CW68HJJQK&hash=item1d6eea46bb:g:eVcAAOSw0J5lgvGP&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FXNVS7U32qUm5mXAN8yYdrYoSuiJIWSpOxFA2avE38GgeRVyKnagTKx8UgTpll1mkidvvPPbG1Ob6V8iV%2BrcBf%2BzJaj%2FgB5e201uaQtuzpMQFxnSq1FnMIMqi54AEgljY0XB%2F9G6hH08cLTKSVD09VSVgcOkDU2hzOhstQfqFxBfVFlkikQD9Jz3lzb2jaShNrwyUez7eCBw8paT9JiN8dQw5zQPr1W3Lyowfa2w%2FDuVbTQTneN9EinE2%2Bf3eVwVeXSIp1oYw3Uaru8L7cTto3KlnLURexbHCWmAgpCsWKH%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5bck5OhZA


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - barryvabeach - 07-31-2024

I will send you a pm.


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - Bob Vaughan - 08-02-2024

Cut off the bad threads, drill out and tap the stud for 7/16.  Screw in a bolt, cut it off, and clean the edges.

There have been lots of good suggestions.

If it were my saw, I'd do the Heli-Coil and get a new stud (shoulder bolt).


RE: Machinist for sholder bolt - anwalt2 - 08-08-2024

(08-02-2024, 01:20 PM)Bob Vaughan Wrote: Cut off the bad threads, drill out and tap the stud for 7/16.  Screw in a bolt, cut it off, and clean the edges.

There have been lots of good suggestions.

If it were my saw, I'd do the Heli-Coil and get a new stud (shoulder bolt).

Thank you AGAIN Bob Vaughn.  You helped me on OWWM.org complete the assembly of the Reeves drive portion of my Powermatic 45 a few years ago.  

I learned that the 7/16 threads go into the casting ~7/8 in.  I am not a skilled welder but I have a 220V 'buzz box' stick welder.  So I welded a piece of 7/16 all thread to 3/8 all thread with sufficient length to reach good threads in the casting.  The bolt pieces are sufficiently close to co-linear.  Nuts serve as the 'shoulder' backup for the cover.  

Thanks to the participants on this forum.  

tom