Adjusting a vintage infill

[JimBelair]

I've got a few old infill planes of various designs (smoother, shoulder, etc) that I haven't used much. I'm a bit nervous about adjusting them with the required hammer taps. In Lee Richmond's latest listings he notes some examples with cracked bodies reported due to hammer hits. This prompted me to post.

I know how to adjust with the tap-tap dance and do so on my woodies without worry. On the infills I'm not quite sure whether to strike the heel of the plane or the bun to retract the iron. And I'm assuming a wooden mallet is best. Maybe there is little risk with tapping of reasonable force.

Thanks in advance for any guidance...

[barryvabeach]

Jim, I have a number of infills, some with adjusters, most without. I don't try to hit anything to back out the iron, I loosen the clamp, then back out the iron with my hand, then slowly move it forward with taps from a brass hammer. If I go too far, I repeat the process. I have a few I bought with front bun problems, one was cracked, one was worn down a lot, and one had ridges, all clearly from being hit - so that kept me away from hitting the front bun. Some say that infills with adjusters have no real advantage over ones without, I say try to back out the iron a few thousands a few times, and see if you don't prefer the adjusters. I do have one plane without an adjuster that I made a snecked iron for - it is pretty easy to do, and that allows you to use a hammer to retract the iron slightly. BTW, I haven't seen one with a cracked body from using a hammer to adjust it, but if you hit the front bun or the rear handle with a hammer, or even a wooden mallet, I think that can end poorly over time. Hope you enjoy your infills, I love mine.

[JimBelair]

Thanks Barry. One of the planes I'm referring to is the Mathieson I got from you. I'll play around with it a bit and see what works but definitely avoid striking any of the wood parts

[marcb]

I have this tiny old Stanley hammer with plastic faces (an inch round at most, not near it to measure)

thats what I use to "hit" my infill. You shouldn't need to wack it just tap it.

[Phil S.]

Jim-

I have this hammer from Lee Valley.



I imagine you could damage a plane with it if you got too carried away, but it has worked well for me.

Phil

[Derek Cohen]

Jim

Make yourself a "setting plate" by gluing a sheet of glass to planed wood ...



Some will be concerned that the hard glass may damage the edge of a blade. It will not do so. It is the unyielding nature of the glass that is the very reason for its choice. In fact, you can - and are recommended - to tap the back of the blade with the blade and plane on the glass plate to ensure that it is flush against the glass.

When setting up a plane, the blade must not be permitted to project beyond the mouth.

It is much easier to adjust the blade outward, that is, increase projection, than to retract the plane blade. One increases projection by tapping on the back edge of the blade with a hammer.

The thing is, generally if you are using an infill smoother, you will be taking fine shavings. The set up described will automatically create this. Just tap the blade to increase the projection. If too much - and you cannot strike the rear of the steel body (even at the base) - then better to start the set up again.

You can do this with woodies as well ..



Regards from Perth

Derek

[JimBelair]

Ah yes, I'd forgotten about the setting plate idea. Thanks Derek.

[Ron Brese]

You should not strike the infill of the plane for any reason. Doing so will change the setting of the iron but the other consequence is that you will eventually change the bedding of the iron by moving the infill. It only takes a few seconds to loosen the lever cap and push the edge of the iron flush to the sole with the tips of your fingers and then re-adjust the depth of cut. Once you become adept at this it's really only a matter of seconds. I know some planes have strike buttons but using them is folly and eventually bad for the plane.


Ron