KC's arbor nut post got me thinking

[K. L. McReynolds]

There is an ongoing discussion(when folks are polite, that is) about how to properly(safely) tighten the arbor nut on a table saw.

Some time back, I decided the finger tight method was better suited to my TS use.

I have a Rigid TS2424 contractor saw and a Porter Cable portable job site saw. The Rigid is my shop saw and is used mainly with hardwoods for shop projects.

The PC is for everything else. Like ripping 16' treated 2x6 lumber or cutting plywood sheets.

I have several blades for each, 80 tooth Freud Ultimate fine finish cut blades to 24 tooth rough rip blades.

I've had zero issues with the finger tight method, although I remember the first couple of times I was a bit apprehensive.

Now, I use a shaper set on the Rigid. When I use it, I tighten the blade holder with the wrenches. I learned that by leaving it looser than normal one time.

Stacked dado sets also get tightened with wrenches.

Your observations and experiences?

[lift mechanic]

I tighten any blade to about 20 - 25 ft/lbs. Maybe over kill? I also wipe the arbor flange and both sides of the blade before tightening. It is interesting that finger tight has been tight enough. I am not sure what the manual says about tightening, don't thing I ever opened it.

[Arlin Eastman]

I used to really get down on the nut for tightening it on my old sears saw until I had to take it off.

I will never do that again so now all I do is snug it down and everything is OK.

Arlin

[KC]

I use the wrench, but don't overpower it. I figure there's a reason they provide the wrenches (flat on the arbor on the Xacta).

My Forrest dado set and one Freud blade are a very tight fit. Woodworker II full kerf and think kerf are noticeably easier to put on. I have to pay attention with the others and make sure they're all the way on and flat against each other. Probably didn't do that this time. I suspect if you rotated one of the chippers such that the teeth were hitting one of the others that would keep things from tightening up correctly. One of those things we pay attention to when putting the stack together, but that first little bit of tightening up may move things.

[MsNomer]

When I took a shop class at the local Vo-Tech, I would always ask the instructor to tighten the blade because I didn't think I had the strength to do it right. Horrible teacher that he was, he never taught me any better. Someone else in the class taught me that gentle force with the wrenches is sufficient.

[AgGEM]

MsNomer said:

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... that gentle force with the wrenches is sufficient.

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"Mechanic's tight" is how I say it. Now it has been a long time since I last used a Table Saw, but the RAS is the same idea. On my RAS,the threads are left handed to encourage the nut to stay put.
Ag

[Bill_de]

Until stumbling into this forum about 10 years ago I tightened my blades as much as possible. My saw at the time didn't accept two wrenches. You held the blade with a piece of scrap and tightened until the blade started cutting through the wood.

My next two saws accepted 2 wrenches, but by then I had learned to be gentle. With my current SS, even if I go just slightly more than hand tight (I have 2 wrenches so feel I have to use them ) it takes quite a bit of effort to loosen the nut after just light use.

The manufacturers don't seem to stress the point that snug is good. I remember somebody here complaining about the cheap Grizzly wrenches. He said he kept bending them so that they were loose on the nuts. IIRC, Grizzly replaced them, but never said 'lighten up'.

As was pointed out early in the other thread, making sure the blade is properly seated is most important.


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[RocketRod]

Finger tight and it tightens itself as its used for both the table saw and radial arm saw.

As far as the shaper -- even though I use the Keyed washer will is supposed to keep the nut from backing off when spinning counter clockwise -- I still tighten it pretty snug and then check it occasionaly