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The cheap petcock? drain valve on my compressor tank broke, and I want to replace it with a full port ball valve. I don't want to take any chances with putting in a valve that is not suitable, but I don't know how to interpret the specs that are printed on one that I have available.
It reads: 150WSP, 600WOG
It seems this should be fine but I would like to be sure. Any comments?
Steve
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150 WSP = 150 PSI Working Steam Pressure, 600 WOG = 600 PSI Water, Oil, Gas Pressure. Basically all these numbers are pressure ratings, not necessarily quality ratings. As with anything there are always trade offs. Ball valves are great for quick on/off operations but tend to start leaking sooner than later, gate valves are slower to open/close but tend to be much more reliable when sealing or shutting off over the long haul. Personally, I lean towards gate valves since they generally last longer and with your application speed of opening/closing isn't critical at all.
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LarryC said:
150 WSP = 150 PSI Working Steam Pressure, 600 WOG = 600 PSI Water, Oil, Gas Pressure. Basically all these numbers are pressure ratings, not necessarily quality ratings. As with anything there are always trade offs. Ball valves are great for quick on/off operations but tend to start leaking sooner than later, gate valves are slower to open/close but tend to be much more reliable when sealing or shutting off over the long haul. Personally, I lean towards gate valves since they generally last longer and with your application speed of opening/closing isn't critical at all.
I haven't ever seen a ball valve which was leaking or seized (not saying they can't) But I have seen a whole bunch of gate valves which were leaking, or impossible to close, or both. Besides, we're talking about a $10 valve of a compressor drain, worst case scenario if starts hissing in a few years, and when it gets too loud to ignore, you replace it.
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LarryC said:
150 WSP = 150 PSI Working Steam Pressure, 600 WOG = 600 PSI Water, Oil, Gas Pressure. Basically all these numbers are pressure ratings, not necessarily quality ratings.
Thanks Larry - that is exactly the information I was looking for. I intend to keep my working pressure below 150 psi. I understand that the ball valves wear faster, but it should be easy to swap if needed.
Steve
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Just pick up a ball valve. They rarely ever leak as for gate valves I have never had any luck with them. They tend to leak, jam etc and that's when new. Only good ones I have seen are the massive ones used in industry.
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I have also noticed that some ball valves are brass and some are bronze. Any ideas if one of these is better suited to use on an air compressor? I will be threading the valve onto a piece of existing black pipe that is extending from the tank.
Steve
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I would switch the black pipe for galvanized
and use either brass or bronze ball valves
that makes no difference
Joe
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