Getting Started with planes

[woodrot]

I have been working wood for several years, lots of crafty stuff and a some furniture - all with power tools. Never used a plane, but it's time
to enter that field of play. I am not a purist, just practical. I have been doing some reading and figure I want a jack plane, smoothing plane, low angle block plane to start. Anything drastically wrong with that conclusion? 2nd question is what is reasonably priced brands a begginner can purchase that is not junk, that I can learn with and use affectively. I will still be doing most of my work with power tools, the planes are to contribute to that end. I have seen some planes in Grizzly catalog from $40 - $100 dollar range, shop fox brand. Will these work? Need some direction. Thanks for your time to respond. Woodrot

[Scott W]

My suggestion is to not buy those. Post a WTB in the swap and sell forum. Look for a vintage Stanley. There are other fine brands but it's easier to get started with those....please don't buy new unless you have real money...there are some real reputable sellers here. SteveF, Admiral, there are others. Send knew a PM and ask what they have. Cheaper to buy all from one b/c of shipping.

Now, sharpening....can you sharpen?

[woodrot]

thanks for the reply Scott W. Yes, I can sharpen. I am a turner as well and am set up for sharpening turning tools, chisels, etc. I do have some decent stones and such. Woodrot

[Bill Wilson]

Woodrot, I'm in very much the same circumstance as you. I've been making sawdust for years, but practically all of if was made with power tools. Very recently, I've developed an interest in hand tools. I'm not really sure where this new interest will lead, but for now, I'm interested primarily in buying planes for the purpose of using them, rather than collecting them.

There are lots of vintage planes out there. Look for names like Stanley or Millers Falls (there are others, but these are plentiful and affordable). If you are willing to put a little work into them, you can get one that's 60, 70, 80 years old that is still in good shape and is reasonably priced. Peruse flea markets, antique shops, auctions, etc, as well as the S&S section of this forum. Looking for nice planes can be fun as well as productive. If you are set up to sharpen, that's half the battle of rehabbing old planes. They are a great value and I think you will develop a stronger affinity for the tools that you find and fix up yourself.

[woodrot]

Thank you Bill Wilson for the reply. My time is very limited so cannot shop around physically, but the S&S section does appear to be a good option. I just don't know about planes and need some good advice on what to get to get started. I am getting ready to build a kitchen table from some Red Beech salvaged out of an 1800's warehouse that I was hoping to be the first project where some hand planes could be used. Perhaps those who market these tools on this site will be kind enough to help me along with the process as I dip my toe into the "plane"etary ocean. I hope your search is productive as well. Woodrot

[JR1]

For starters vintage planes tend to get to be more work on the plane and not the wood. As you can sharpen its less a concern for you. Get at least a modern block plane. The Woodcraft woodriver WoodRiver Low Angle Block Hand Plane with Adjustable Mouth is a good plane to start with. I have one and it only took a little sharpening out of the4 box. It's a very good plane and I don't need to say for the money. Also look at the Lee Valley planes, the Veritas® Low-Angle Jack Plane gets the most use in my shop after the block. the LV planes are better engineered and built than the old planes and te have PM V11 steel blades available. PM V11 is a huge improvement in blade steel.

[Scott W]

There are user vintage planes in S&S frequently that are ready to go. No need to be intimidated by them. Now, a basket case like I just got at an antique store is NOT what I am talking about. That no. 6 is rough. I have gotten several that, just like any new plane, you can hone and go.

Consider your options and what works for you.

[bgeva]

Depending of what are you making and what wood do you use good jack is probably an excellent start. If it is tuned you can use it as a smoother to some extent. I would start with really clean vintage Stanley or Bedrock. If you have the means go straight to LN and LV - less tuning, better blades.

For the block - I REALLY like my low-angle LN.

welcome to the slippery slope.

BG

[DavidRobertson]

About a year ago I bought a Grizzly smoothing plane (equivalent to a #4) to see how they were. I believe it was made in pakistan.

Out of the box and the blade sharpened, it did mediocre. The main problem was the blade and chipbreaker were bent/warped slightly.

I decided to spend a lot of time (a lot) to make it perform well.

1. Bottom was not too bad, but put a few hours into getting it flat and square with the sides.
2. About the same amount of work getting the frog and body mating surface smooth.
3. About an hour to get the ogee part of the frog smooth/level for the blade bed.
4. Put a LV A2 blade and chipbreaker on.
5. Put a T13 or 14 lever cap on (I disliked the screw knob)
6. Shaped the tote
7. Took the varnish off of tote and knob and replaced with beeswax finish.

Bottom line is a sweet working plane that costs just as much money in the long run in labor/parts as a premium plane or very good shape vintage (or two).

Biggest downfall is the mouth is quite large and nothing I can do about that.

Now my Stanley #4 T13, just sharpened the blade and works a treat.

If that Grizzly would have been my first bench plane, I would have been pretty frustrated.

I did beat the original chipbreaker and blade into submission and then put a 3" radius on it. Makes a good scrub plane.

Dave

[JR1]

Thanks for the Grizzly quick review