Question about Tee Track

[Herb G]

How do you guys join them at intersections?
I know they sell junctions for it but they are expensive.

Has anyone ever used a hacksaw to make the cuts for the 45* angles? Dremel tool & cut off wheel?

Bueller? Bueller?

[KyleD]

Use your miter saw or table saw with a miter gauge and the same blade you figured out will cut particle board. Aluminum extrusions cut just fine with carbide saw blades. Run a block of wax along the teeth if you are worried about lubrication. The only reason lubrication would be needed is if the aluminum wants to weld itself to the saw teeth. I use a reasonably sharp combination blade and cut up to 3/4' by 6" wide aluminum with no problem and no lubrication.

[museumguy]

KyleD said:

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Use your miter saw or table saw with a miter gauge and the same blade you figured out will cut particle board. Aluminum extrusions cut just fine with carbide saw blades. Run a block of wax along the teeth if you are worried about lubrication. The only reason lubrication would be needed is if the aluminum wants to weld itself to the saw teeth. I use a reasonably sharp combination blade and cut up to 3/4' by 6" wide aluminum with no problem and no lubrication.

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Exactly this. The other suggestion I can make in addition to this is to cover the bottom face with masking tape. Way back in the mid 80's when I started in the museum trade, I had a very wise coworker give me this tip. It works really well. The tape acts as a lubricant in some way. We never had regular masking tape, always the blue or the green. For some reason, the blue seemed to work better.

Now, when you are done, you may need to clean the blade with some thinner to clean the tape residue off. Also, if you do use wax on the blade, clean your table before cutting any wood. The only reason I'm mentioning this is because some types of wax contain ingredients that will get into the wood pores and prevent a finish from sticking. We had someone spray all of the equipment with a silicone spray, lots of issues until he fessed up and we cleaned everything. The same with the metal cutting wax sticks we used. Just a thought.

[Dan Moening]

^Yup. Both suggestions above are spot on re: carbide tooth blade, wax and blue masking tape.

Only thing I would add is to be sure to thoroughly clean up around the tablesaw immediately afterwards lest you embed bits of aluminum in subsequent pieces of stock ... the "chips" get tossed everywhere despite ducted collection.

[KyleD]

Using tape is an interesting suggestion, I may give that a try next time I cut thicker aluminum.

One question Museum Guy,
Is there a reason to put the tape on the bottom?
In my mind, it seems the top would be a better place to have the tape as the saw teeth would go through the tape and carry some of the tape lubrication along for the immediate cut into aluminum.
I have no doubt I may be over-thinking this. If that is your answer, do not be afraid to tell me so.

[blackhat]

All the above is perfectly true and valid but - you can still use a hacksaw and clean up with a file if you so choose. Just keep in mind that many of the bolts and so forth won't pass through a mitered corner. You need a starter hole somewhere.

[Paul K. Murphy]

We have a carbide blade for cutting aluminum at work. I can't remember the tooth geometry, but it has zero hook. Use a zero hook or negative hook blade if you can.

[Herb G]

I'm thinking of using a Dremel tool so I can get a super fine jointed edge. I have seen aluminum cut on a carbide blade for glass curtain walls, etc. It isn't a pretty sight, nor is it very safe. I have seen the teeth of the blade grab the track & hurl it across the room.

[blackhat]

I would bet good money that the piece you saw go flying was not properly supported by the saws fence or was being handheld while cut with some type of circ saw. In that respect, aluminum is no more dangerous than wood. Cut quality is the same thing, proper tooth count and feed rate makes a big difference. Just curious what Dremel bit or cutter you think will make a better cut than a good table or miter saw blade? If you want perfect mitres, be prepared to dress them up a bit with a flat file. It's pretty easy.

[KyleD]

I will bet dollars to dougnuts I can cut the track in 1/10 the time using my table saw and miter sled and a regular combination carbide blade. I have cut hundreds of pieces of aluminum and brass on a tables saw and never once had a piece get thrown anywhere.
I will bet more dollars to doughnuts my cut will be smoother and straighter than can be accomplished using a dremel.
That being said, cut it any way you want, your way might not look as pretty as mine but it should work just as well.
But, if you already have your mind made up, why you asking? Just go do it.