Simonds Saw #72

[OneStaple]

Hey all,

While visiting my wife's extended family over Thanksgiving, I was able to pick up a Simonds hand saw #72 that belonged to my late grandfather-in-law (I never met him). They're trying to clear out his stuff, and I'm the only one in the extended family who has any appreciation for old tools.

While I've worked on old planes and stuff, old saws is not something that I've ever gotten into, although every time I see a nice looking old saw, I think that I really should. So now's the time!

The etching is really tough to see, but there. I'm sure it'll be more evident with some cleaning. From what I've read, the medallion indicates it's from about 1910-1926. The 72 is supposed to be from their "blue ribbon" series, or top of the line. It has a 28" blade (2.5" tall at the tip).

While I've never restored an old hand saw, I've read through a bunch of posts/articles about it in the past few days. My main question is what to do with the handle. There are significant cracks in three places (see pictures) and the bottom chunk feels like it would fall off if it weren't for the wire on the handle. Would you just epoxy it back together? Or is there a point on these where they're too far gone and it's worth making a new handle?

The blade also has a gentle curve to it, not a definite spot with a kink. Is that something I should be worried about?

Thanks,
Tyler

[Admiral]

I'd carefully remove the handle so you don't do any more damage, clean it ip, and epoxy as I've seen much worse handles in the sense that the horns ate pretty much intact and you're only dealing with the cracks.

The plate should be able to be straightened out with some gentle bending over your knee, it's more of an art than science, as well as hammering them on an anvil, but I would not recommend the latter, just try gentle bends.

It's worth the effort, especially since it has a family connection.

[Anji12305]

If you have a card scraper, remove the cap heads and tap out the through bolts. Reglue the handle, as it is. It looks like a clean break.

I would not worry about a subtle curve along the length of the plate.
If it cuts straight, it won't matter.

After you sharpen it, if it doesn't cut straight - then work it out.

http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/saw_c...clean.html

[Joe Bailey]

My point here is not to gloat (I had nothing to do with preserving it all these decades, and I am merely it's current caretaker) but rather to provide you with a few shots of what your saw would have looked like when new.

[Martin S.]

Send it to Daryl.

He can restore it, and do a good job.

It might cost a little, but well worth it.

[OneStaple]

Come on Joe, you're just showing those pictures to make me jealous, aren't you? Beautiful saw! If you want, I'm game for an even swap between our saws. I'm even feeling generous enough to pay for shipping on both.

My saw has the two other sections of etching that your saw shows (although I didn't take a picture). On the cursive, you can make out everything but "broadest" and "guarantee", although those may be clearer with some cleaning. Similarly, the "London, England" and "NO. 72" on the main etching are difficult to see. I had to look at other pictures of Simonds etchings to know where to look for the model number.

It's tempting to have someone else, like Daryl, restore the saw. I know I could do a decent job with most of it, but doing a proper sharpening is intimidating, since I have not done one before. And I have way too many other projects. The flip side is, I might as well learn sometime and then that'll open the door to getting and refurbing others.

Tyler

[Martin S.]

Don't practice on your good saw.

Get a kit or blank from Blacky and practice on something before you touch your good saw.

Or, do the restoration part, and then send it to Daryl to sharpen.

[C. in Indy]

I might have an appropriate Tote that you can use / refinish, if you're interested. I just picked up a junky Simonds at an antique mall while traveling this week. The blade has a couple of broken teeth and no visible etching due to a lot of rust, but the tote is in pretty solid shape, and I think the pattern is a match.

Now adding Photo link:

[Pat Zabrocki]

The cracks/breaks in your saw look pretty clean. I've glued worse than that and with little evidence. I use regular wood glue but some use epoxy. That's more of a preference. If you have some gaps to fill, the epoxy is better because it will fill the gaps. Mix some saw dust just in the gaps. I've redone some lamb's tongues like that. Lastly, do not use sandpaper on the blade. There is a thread about foil and polish if you search for it. That etch has a lot of life and will be very visible if you polish it.
pat

[Phil S.]

Just tried a search to find the post about polishing a saw plate with foil and Autosol® IIRC and came up empty. Anybody have that link? Hopefully it hasn't gone the way of the dodo and it's just my lack of searching skill.