How to cut mortises

[Bope]

I am finally at cutting up some wood for my table project. The feet I am planning on notching in the center and slipping the two pieces together. For the curved pieces I was planning on draw boring floating tenons. I would glue and pin the tenon in one side then draw bore it on the other side. The trick is going to be making the mortises. Any thoughts on how to get them lined up and straight?

[JGrout]

make registered window based jigs for the loose tenons.

As long as all the parts are the same lengths and the arches are all the same that would be the easiest

Joe

[Bope]

So if I use a hand held router and a jig would it be best to do it after I make the tapers? I am also curious how long of a bit I will need to do the inside for the long curved leg. Will have to see how high the jig will need to be to allow room for the router.

[JGrout]

Make the window jig long and narrow as you can to keep it as close as it will allow. You can even taper the edges some to get even closer.

I have no clue as to how deep you want the mortises to be but a 3" long bit should yield at least 1 1/2" deep Once you have an outline you could always go to a top bearing bit using the initial mortise for registration

[Don_M]

Any time I start dealing with odd angles/shapes I immediately go with loose tenons. I use a mortise pal - it is a very simple but useful and accurate tool. I highly recommend - it will make life a lot easier on this project - IMO

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/mortise-pa...-joint-cutting/

[JR1]

Checkout the Domino Supplemental Manual by Rick Christopherson He has some interesting techniques including compound angle joints. You may also find this guide useful. RTS Engineering MGS-20-D Multi Position Guide Stop

[Anji12305]

Drawbored loose tenons?

What are the tenons made of?
Drawboring applies tremendous stress.

Consider using long screws, or fine machine bolts from underneath.

This will be difficult enough to assemble, without driving pegs.

I would drill two through holes in each of the lower "feet" and use those as locators for threaded inserts in the curved "legs".

It does make some sense to inset the legs in the feet with a small
recess, to bring the joint tight on assembly.

I would try to make the leg and foot assembly mechanically stable before relying on glue - the tendency to splay at the leg will constant.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/threa...serts.aspx

[Bope]

Anji12305 said:

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Drawbored loose tenons?

What are the tenons made of?
Drawboring applies tremendous stress.

Consider using long screws, or fine machine bolts from underneath.

This will be difficult enough to assemble, without driving pegs.

I would drill two through holes in each of the lower "feet" and use those as locators for threaded inserts in the curved "legs".

It does make some sense to inset the legs in the feet with a small
recess, to bring the joint tight on assembly.

I would try to make the leg and foot assembly mechanically stable before relying on glue - the tendency to splay at the leg will constant.

---

I agree needing to physically secure the legs prior to using glue which is why I was thinking tenons. I was going to drawbore the tenons to pull the joint together since clamping will be difficult. I was taking cues from the picture to see how the original was assembled. Using threaded inserts is an interesting twist that would be easier than tenons. I can see using them where the long leg meets the foot and where the long and short legs meet. Where the short leg meets the foot might be more difficult since that is over the arc in the end of the foot. Also these inserts will be going into end grain, wont that be a weak joint? Would a cross dowel and long screws be better?

[mike4244]

I use draw peg technique a lot. I have only used it on tenons,never on a loose tenon.I would try it on a scrap first to see if the loose tenon will take the lateral pressure of the peg.Would it be difficult to do a mortise & tenon instead of a loose tenon?
mike

[JGrout]

mike4244 said:

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I use draw peg technique a lot. I have only used it on tenons,never on a loose tenon.I would try it on a scrap first to see if the loose tenon will take the lateral pressure of the peg.Would it be difficult to do a mortise & tenon instead of a loose tenon?
mike

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just glue the loose tenon into one side first

Then do the draw if that is the way you go.

I would not try and form a tenon like he has; the shoulders would be a very painstaking endeavour

It will be bad enough without the tenon sticking out