02-05-2016, 09:18 PM
Here's a link to Part 1.
Yesterday I continued by gluing the side panels into their rabbets, and a filler panel at the bottom as well. I used my workbench as a flat reference surface to help assure the panels would remain flat.
After an hour or so I cut dados in the sides and faceframe for the shelves and a dust panel below the drawer.
Curiously, I got chip out only on one side, not on every cut, but some.
The dado stack had been recently sharpened and cut beautifully prior to this. Maybe it was the plywood and not the blade. Thankfully, it's paint grade, but also justifies why I often use biscuits to join shelves to the sides of cabinets - no danger of chip out.
Next I cut rabbets in the sides for the back panel, using the dado stack buried in a sacrificial fence.
Finally, I cut 45 deg bevels to join the front to sides. I have a right tilt TS so I used a floating fence that J. Grout has shown several times. It allows you to cut the bevels without trapping the work between the blade and fence. The floating fence is set so that the off cut falls harmlessly underneath. The blade is buried in the fence and its height is set so the point where it enters the fence is equal to the thickness of the work piece. Here's what my test piece looked like:
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After the bevels were done I cut biscuit slots in the beveled edges.
then did a test fit:
I cut the shelves from 1/2" plywood using my "slightly" over sized but oh so accurate crosscut sled.
It has two features that are really important to me. It has a top guard of plexiglass to keep sawdust out of my face and, more importantly, to remind me where not to put my hands. And at the back is blade guard.
I slid the shelves into place and checked to make sure everything fit properly.
Then I glued it up, but only glued in the two lower shelves. I don't think I would be able to spray very uniformly into those openings with the top shelf in place. The lower opening won't matter because that's where the drawer goes. I'll slide the upper shelf in after finishing.
I should have made some clamping cauls, and I should not have put glue in the biscuit slots. I didn't and I did, and I had to use way too many clamps to close up the bevels, with several choice phrases uttered along the way. Pretty, isn't it.
That's a poster child of how not to go about a smooth glue up. Fortunately, it came out OK. At that point, I stopped and went to find a beer.
John
Yesterday I continued by gluing the side panels into their rabbets, and a filler panel at the bottom as well. I used my workbench as a flat reference surface to help assure the panels would remain flat.
After an hour or so I cut dados in the sides and faceframe for the shelves and a dust panel below the drawer.
Curiously, I got chip out only on one side, not on every cut, but some.
The dado stack had been recently sharpened and cut beautifully prior to this. Maybe it was the plywood and not the blade. Thankfully, it's paint grade, but also justifies why I often use biscuits to join shelves to the sides of cabinets - no danger of chip out.
Next I cut rabbets in the sides for the back panel, using the dado stack buried in a sacrificial fence.
Finally, I cut 45 deg bevels to join the front to sides. I have a right tilt TS so I used a floating fence that J. Grout has shown several times. It allows you to cut the bevels without trapping the work between the blade and fence. The floating fence is set so that the off cut falls harmlessly underneath. The blade is buried in the fence and its height is set so the point where it enters the fence is equal to the thickness of the work piece. Here's what my test piece looked like:
[
After the bevels were done I cut biscuit slots in the beveled edges.
then did a test fit:
I cut the shelves from 1/2" plywood using my "slightly" over sized but oh so accurate crosscut sled.
It has two features that are really important to me. It has a top guard of plexiglass to keep sawdust out of my face and, more importantly, to remind me where not to put my hands. And at the back is blade guard.
I slid the shelves into place and checked to make sure everything fit properly.
Then I glued it up, but only glued in the two lower shelves. I don't think I would be able to spray very uniformly into those openings with the top shelf in place. The lower opening won't matter because that's where the drawer goes. I'll slide the upper shelf in after finishing.
I should have made some clamping cauls, and I should not have put glue in the biscuit slots. I didn't and I did, and I had to use way too many clamps to close up the bevels, with several choice phrases uttered along the way. Pretty, isn't it.
That's a poster child of how not to go about a smooth glue up. Fortunately, it came out OK. At that point, I stopped and went to find a beer.
John
