Worksharp vs. Waterstones ?

[JSpill]

It's once again time to start a discussion (argument). What sharpening method do you use? It has been written here many times, "One should choose one method of sharpening and perfect that method."
I ask Worksharp users and water stone users, why is your method the best method for you?

[cputnam]

I use my WS 3000 with table for coarse grinding and for power stropping. I am experimenting with really coarse stones for grinding too. For me, power generally means that I've screwed up in less time. So, for everyday sharpening of good irons and chisels I use Stu's famous 3 stone set: 1000, 6000, 13000. Extremely happy with this set.

Beater stuff will stay on the WS 3000. Knives are power stropped on my 1 x 42" sander with a leather belt - except for my Benchmade pocket knife which gets a ceramic stone that I got from Jack (Timberwolf.) Haven't figured out carving tools yet.

[Ray Newman]

When the Tormek system first came out way beck when, I purchased one thinking it would quicker and easier. Put away my King water stones.

Now I am going to back to the water stones. I just do not think that that the Tormek gives an edge that is as sharp as what the 6000, 8000 + grit water stones achieve.

My cutting tools just seem to cut easier when using the higher grit water stones. Probably an "unfair" comparison -- the edge from very fine/ultra fine water stone to the edge form the Tormek stone.

And one approach I will take is sharpening/touching up the edge after use. As one poster in another thread stated: "sharpen more often to sharpen less." Before I would let the cutting edges loose their cutting edge and then spend more time sharpening/honing....

[Wilbur Pan]

I think that people pick the sharpening regimen that they do, not because one gets you a sharper edge than the others, but because it is less annoying than all the other ones.

With waterstones, you need to manage the water. Other methods of sharpening tend to be faster than oilstones. Diamonds give me an unpleasant “fingernails on a chalkboard” feeling, and they seem to wear out quickly. Sandpaper needs replacing and dealing with the spray adhesive you used to stick the sandpaper down with. Whichever one of these bothers you the least will probably be the method of sharpening that you’ll gravitate to.

Of these, I find water management to be the least annoying, which is the main reason I use waterstones.

[Admiral]

It really depends on what you're doing. I have to regrind a lot of plane irons and some chisels to reset the bevels so I invest in power. I use a bench grinder for the coarse work to get the bevel very close to where I want it, then flatten the back on oilstones, then to a Tormek to square it off, get to the precise bevel and get me as close as I can to pretty darn sharp, then oilstones and manual strop to get me to really sharp. I can go from a butchered or buggered, chipped iron to really sharp in 10 minutes or less, simply because I use electrons. Now, that being said, once you have a new bevel, I don't think you need power, just some stones, take your pick of type and grit; or sandpaper for those who prefer that medium. I haven't put a power grinder of any type on my user chisels and irons in a number of years, only stones and pretty much always freehand which is easy with a slightly hollow grind left by the grinder; every once in a while I may reset bevels on the Tormek when a tool has been honed away from my cutting angle of choice. Works for me.

I've never used a WS, so can't comment on it; it became available well after I was finished buying and trying every jig and system that came along, then decided to perfect one system and stick with it. I'm sure it works well for some fo1k.

[Steve N]

I've got some pretty expensive water stones I NEVER use anymore. I get it all done with my Worksharp.

I agree with Wilbur, if it has a lower aggravation point for you, that is how you will sharpen. I have a number of glass plates with different grits. I can swap them out quick, and to tweak an edge I'm done in seconds. When I used the stones it always seemed like a production. Plus in my case the tools are much sharper

[rwe2156]

My answer: Neither.

Personally I wouldn't buy a Tormek unless I had an industrial shop or plenty of spare funds.

Thought about a Workshop but in the end, I think it would jut collect dust.

Once you learn to hand sharpen and fine tune your skills, you don't need any power sharpening, just a grinder for re-establishing a hollow bevel or a ruined edge.

I have timed myself from start to finish on a touch up its often less than 2 minutes by hand never more than 5 (and that's usually because I'm sipping a beer).

[KlausK.]

I have a different way that I'm rather pleased with. The sharpening will be done on the Tormek. The honing I do with diamond lapping film from LV

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.as...&cat=1,43072

The films are fixed onto thick granite plates.



This method allows the quick honing of the blades to a razor sharp edge very quick. This will be done quite often. The fluid I use is WD 40. One hasn't to dabble with water while honing and no flattening of the "stone" is needed. I need 1 or 2 sets of the diamond film per year. A very good invest to me.

Klaus

[Axehandle]

I use a Tormek and an extra fine spyderco ceramic followed by some green rouge on a horse butt leather strop.

[DFJarvie]

I ended up using a grinder and oil stones. I have a WS and spy deco stones and don't use either after I learned how to use the HG and oil stones.

The WS is good and pretty foolproof.