crank top peppermill instructions

[scpapa]

I'm confused by the instructions for the crank top pepper mill. The instructions seem to contradict themselves. The length of the blank is 2 7/8', create 1/4" tenon on both ends, create recesses for mechanism, remove tenon, but the final dimension is 2 7/8. What am I missing?

Rick

[Woodshop]

what mechanism do you have?

[scpapa]

Artisan crank top from Craftsupply USA
Rick

[chips ahoy]

Can you show us a pic?

Mel

[Steve K]

Looking at the PDF of the instructions, I agree they are poorly written and somewhat confusing. It looks to me as though 2 7/8" is finish dimension and the tenons are in the waste area as both get turned away. Remember you are starting with a 3.5" long blank and there is plenty of room to form the dovetail tenons.

[scpapa]

Here are the instructions

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/...p_mill.pdf

[iclark]

Here are the instructions

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/...p_mill.pdf

Instructions say

True the ends of the blank making the overall length 2-7/8" long. Cut a 1/4" long dovetail tenon on each end for mounting in a 4 jaw chuck.

Very poorly phrased!

The order should be:
true the ends
cut the tenons
resulting body length between tenons is 2-7/8"

The blank is 3-1/2" long. Once you true both ends, it will be slightly shorter. When you put a 1/4" dovetail on each end, that leaves slightly less than 3" as the length of the cylinder between the tenons. That slightly less than 3" dimension becomes the 2-7/8" dimension as you clean things up.

When you cut the tenons, make sure that they are not long enough to bottom out in the dovetail of your chuck. You want the ends of the chuck jaws seated against the shoulder of the tenon. If you are using chuck jaws with a shallow dovetail, you have to adjust the dimensions accordingly.

The actual critical dimensions are the distance between the top and bottom 1-1/2" shoulders of the cavity and the depth of the 1-3/16" recess. It looks like a little long for the cavity might not be a problem other than needing to lengthen the shaft a bit with a dot of epoxy and a shim so that the top nut will get snug. If the cavity is a little short, you can use a file to shorten the top of the shaft a little bit.

The other depths/lengths are forgiving.

We look forward to seeing your mill(s).

[scpapa]

iclark, thanks for the clarifications! I'm heading out to the shop to start on them. I'll post pics whenever they are complete.

Rick

[iclark]

Rick,

You are very welcome. I am glad that someone is getting some shop time. It is just too hot here.

I look forward to the pics.

Ivan

[scpapa]

It's hot here, too (central South Carolina) but my shop has a/c.
 

Rick