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It won't be a problem. Just glue and clamp. I would do 4-5 boards at a time.
If you're standing boards on edge, 2x6's will be an extremely thick top, no?
Its fine to use 2x4's for the top and 2x6's for the legs.
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08-23-2016, 04:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-23-2016, 04:58 PM by Window Guy.)
You may want to check out Paul Sellers site and he has a video of making a workbench ( www.paulsellers.com ) I built this cheap bench from standard crap 2 X 4's from HD for about $50 almost ( 3 ) years ago and I love it. The top is edge side up giving you a thickness of about 3 1/2" or so after planing. I built this entire bench with 2 X 4's, glue, and a #4 stanley plane just like Paul showed. It was fun to build, I learned a lot in the process, improved my sharpening and planing skills and it is rock solid. I also bought the cheap Harbor Freight aluminum clamps ( 7 ) total and modified them like Paul did his clamps. Nice thing about this if money is tight you can build in phases, just try and get the straightest 2 X 4 you can find. I would build the top 1st and set it up on saw horse's or a workmate unti you can complete the aprons and legs. I haven't put any finish other than wax on the top put planed the top and bottom flat and painted the apron and legs. Just a thought if you are interested .
Steve
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Thanks Steve - it's a great idea and definitely where I started, and I've sort of branched out from there. I grabbed 2x6's over 4's before I had a good plan in mind, but I think I can combine some parts of his table and another table plan I was sent and come up with something solid.
Also, I am definitely building the top first! And once I get this first glue-up done, I may have to look into how to plane on it without it being fully set up - maybe drill a doghole or two, even if they don't end up in the perfect position at the end. Planing into the concrete wall of my basement has led to more than one scraped knuckle at this point!
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(08-21-2016, 03:00 PM)Zhent Wrote: Thanks to both! I definitely wish I had a jointer, unfortunately all I'm working with now is a #5 Stanley hand plane.
That #6 will be of significant use to you in flattening the top.
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08-24-2016, 04:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-24-2016, 05:04 PM by Steve N.)
(08-21-2016, 05:14 PM)Zhent Wrote: Face to face, as shown.
Thanks!
The picture you have posted is not showing anything.
The link you used is below, as you can see if you drop it into Google it gives a dead end.
From having posted a few Google pics I know this is way too long, usually they don't fill one line on your URL bar.
Gluing up face to face if one side won't be viewed your best bet is to always keep the good side down, and use plenty of screws to go through the "lower board" after the glue has dried you can remove the screws. If you are using construction material go to the big box store of your choice and look at 2x4, then look at 2x8, 10, or 12, and see which is the best wood. Sure the wider stuff will cost more, but it is always flatter, and thus much easier to work with. If you can post the plan of the bench you want, I'm sure a lot better info could be forthcoming
(08-24-2016, 04:32 PM)Steve N Wrote: The picture you have posted is not showing anything.
The link you used is below, as you can see if you drop it into Google it gives a dead end.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O6dWNi...5-h1075-no
From having posted a few Google pics I know this is way too long, usually they don't fill one line on your URL bar.
Gluing up face to face if one side won't be viewed your best bet is to always keep the good side down, and use plenty of screws to go through the "lower board" after the glue has dried you can remove the screws. If you are using construction material go to the big box store of your choice and look at 2x4, then look at 2x8, 10, or 12, and see which is the best wood. Sure the wider stuff will cost more, but it is always flatter, and thus much easier to work with. If you can post the plan of the bench you want, I'm sure a lot better info could be forthcoming
Is that google link for a personal google images account? I use Photobucket, and have no challenges, I've heard grumbling since the software change from Google image users.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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A nice looking lumber bench
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GW
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For future reference, you can apply the glue and then screw the boards together. Once the glue is dry, back the screws out, and you will have a metal-free benchtop that you can drill into anywhere without worrying about hitting hardware.
Steve S.
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I do not see a photo,will advise anyhow.I have made many benches for a living.Laminated softwoods for most.Similar to a woodworkers bench but without a vice,tool tray and dog holes. I have also made a dozen or so hardwood benches for woodworkers.The method is the same.
Check each board for cupping,straight and defects.Set aside the worst of them.You want to hand plane the edges first for straightness.Slight ( 1/8" in 6-0" ) bow is fine.Take a piece of flat aluminum or steel and C-clamp it to the side of your hand plane.The guide should be at least 1-1/2" below the sole plate.When planing by hand keep the guide tight to the work and it will finish dead square.This will be for the edges.I used to do this before i owned a jointer and had many boards to edge plane. Try to plane all the pieces to the same width .The thickness can vary.As far as the faces ,if you err, make it convex in the middle so the boards glue up tight. Leave the length a couple of inches long to be trimmed later.
Clamp the boards up dry. Look for any areas that need further planing. Draw a line across the top in the center.
Draw more lines on 18" centers from the middle each way. 18" is not critical.Draw a line 6" from the ends,don't worry about the theorectical 18" centers.Mark one end on each piece R for right or L for left.
Release the clamps.Scribe a centerline down each piece on the face side.Transfer the lines on the edge to the face.The intersection will be 1/2" diameter holes for 5/16" all thread.
You need the holes to be square to the face.A cheap drill press will do it.You may be able to make a jig to keep the drill bit plumb both ways.Cut 5/16" all-threads the width of the bench. The outside boards need a larger hole and at least 1/2" deep. Measure the washers and the diameter of the socket that will tighten the nuts on each side.Probably 1-1/4 " or more in diameter.Clamp up dry again and make sure the all-threads can pass thru.
Now you are ready to glue up.Remove the all-threads and set them aside.They install last after the bench is glued up.Use a slow setting glue,glue up 6 or less boards at a time. Do your best to get the top even.This is why you want all the boards the same width to start with.If the boards are different widths they will not sit even .The board bottoms rest on the clamps and any difference pushes the wider boards up.
When each set of boards is glued up,glue the sets together.When the glue is dry, run the all-threads thru and install nuts and washers.The all- threads will keep the laminations from coming apart in the future.Important if the bench is subject to large temperature changes such as a garage.
mike
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