Kick plate

[Stwood_]

To the bottom edge of the face frame?

Thanks.

Yes

[Aram]

Thanks, everyone. Triple checking everything!

[Cooler]

I made my last cabinets with the kick as a separate piece.

I built the kick with 2 x 4" lumber placing a long piece at the front and rear and shorter joining pieces on 14" centers.  I put it in place and leveled it with shims.  Then I fastened it to the floor.  At that point I fastened a sheet of sub-flooring to the top of the 2 x 4 structure.  I think the sub-flooring was about 5/8" and the 2 x 4s were 3-1/2".  So the total height of the kick was about 4-1/8".

This was the first time I've ever used this construction.  I liked it.  Leveling the 2 x 4 structure was easier than leveling individual cabinets.  Once that kick was leveled and fastened and the sub-flooring was attached I just dropped the cabinets in place.  

I did this mostly because it was an easier install.  But I think it was cost effective too.  I saved the extra length of plywood and the time it took to make the notches.  

Overall I would say it was easier.

The height of 4-1/8" seemed about right.

[tablesawtom]

Usually base cabinets are 34 1/2 high allowing 1 1/2 thick countertop. I say usually because someone will have a different application. Upper cabinets are 30 inches unless they are go to the ceiling then they are 42 inches. These measurements are for newer style homes. I think a lot of people make the kick 4 1/2, which makes the style on the face frame 30 inches. Which happens to be the same length as the style length on the upper cabinets. It helps to avoid confusion and maybe re-cutting a bottom style.

I personally don't think a 1/2 inch less on the bottom makes much difference as far as storage goes. Every thing that goes in them are of different heights anyway. I also think that the extra height helps the broom and other cleaning tools get in to do the job.

I final note is you can make the kick any size you want. Do whatever pleases you. Just because other people think something, doesn't mean you have to follow suit.

Tom

[Cooler]

My home, built in 1953, had wall mounted sinks in both bathrooms.  There is a 5 foot run of baseboard heat along the wall where the sink was hung.  

The previous owners put in a 30" wide vanity that encapsulated half of the run of the baseboard heat.  The result was that the interior of the vanity was toasty warm but the bathroom was icy cold.

I built a new 30" wide vanity which I put on legs so that vanity was high enough to clear the baseboard heater.  That worked.  

I also raised the height of the vanity's top so that I would not have to bend over so far to use the sink to wash my face.  

The point being, if you are building your own, the design can be your own too.  Make it fit you.

The image below shows the legs.  I had to move the rear legs in-board to clear the baseboard.  Without the vanity there is only the medicine cabinet for storage.