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Location: Denver
(03-03-2017, 11:53 AM)Foggy Wrote: I would [and have done so] use a 1/2" pipe nipple with locknuts and bushings, or thinwall conduit with connectors, from the back of the box thru the wall to the fixture bracket. With access in the garage I would put a strap on the pipe for additional support. Seal around the conduit and a small tuft of insulation in the conduit after inserting the wires. Stranded wire is easier to work with in the back of the fixture.
Foggy,
I think you are describing my first idea. I think I need to head for the store and check out what's available. I looked at the 1 gang box they used in the ATOH segment and those will not work well with the mounting plate for my lights and how the screws for the lights are located. Maybe there's more hardware available.
Mats
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Location: Fort Worth
(03-03-2017, 11:53 AM)Foggy Wrote: I would [and have done so] use a 1/2" pipe nipple with locknuts and bushings, or thinwall conduit with connectors, from the back of the box thru the wall to the fixture bracket. With access in the garage I would put a strap on the pipe for additional support. Seal around the conduit and a small tuft of insulation in the conduit after inserting the wires. Stranded wire is easier to work with in the back of the fixture.
That won't meet code as the future has to be mounted to the box. The fixture base does not constitute an enclosure for terminating wires without a box attached to it.
Basically that method is no different than just running the wire out through the brick to the fixture. Which is done more often than is realized and while not correct it really isn't a big deal when it comes to safety as there is nothing combustible there anyway. That said I don't recommend it and won't do it myself.
