Learning about boxjoints

[handi]

Another vote here for the block plane. I own three. One is an antique Stanley 102 I bought for $5 at a yard sale and tuned it up. Another is the very nice Lee Valley and the third is a bronze Lie Nielsen. 

All three can do the job.

[Steve N]

Also not suggested, but what I strive to do is not make a joint without that "built in" work, and I cut mine just deep enough to mate, but leave me no appreciable work to clean up. A light any of those ideas mentioned will finish your corners quickly, and if you are removing just a little over, there is much less chance of tearout.

[DieselDennis]

Gee if I made a box joint that protruded 1/32" I'd be ecstatic that I could "fix" that issue relatively easily.

[TomFromStLouis]

The built in work of being off a little other way - fingers recessed - makes me always a bit long. Planing off 1/32" is quick and rewarding work.

[Steve N]

Gee if I made a box joint that protruded 1/32" I'd be ecstatic that I could "fix" that issue relatively easily.

I invested in an I-box a few years ago when they came out, and you can make them dead nutz if you want to. I really like box joints for many small projects, so it was a great investment. YMMV.

I box

[BrokenOlMarine]

Wife gave me an ibox as a gift and you can do amazing things with it. I really like it.

[Alan S]

Maybe others work differently, but to me making the fingers a little long saves time during glueup compared to exact length fingers. That's because it is a pain during glueup to make sure no trace winds up on endgrain where it would show under a finish. With slightly proud fingers you can quickly apply glue, and easily plane off the endgrain.

[Guest]

For a small box, my 12" disc sander works fast and easy.