Matching hardwood flooring

[MstrCarpenter]

I just finished laying some pre-finished red oak strip flooring in a step-down addition. I used the same material to fill in where the wall was removed too. The finish is close enough to the existing but not close enough for the patch (12" X 16'). The original is 30+ year old 2-1/4" red oak with a lot of grain and color variations that was sanded and finished in place with a gloss poly that has a lot of amber tint to it. I think a light coat of amber shellac would give it the color change I'm looking for, but I doubt it will stick to the new finish. By the way, the new finish is semi-gloss, and it also has the "micro-bevels". I think the can get away with the bevels but the color and sheen needs to be closer. I guess I'm looking for a simple solution; not sure it's going to happen.

[CLETUS]

 I guess I'm looking for a simple solution; not sure it's going to happen.

I agree.

I was trying to match some flooring. The owner of the Sherwin Williams store told me to leave an example and a piece of new. After a week, he showed me his 6 attempts. None suited me.

[Roly]

I just finished laying some pre-finished red oak strip flooring in a step-down addition. I used the same material to fill in where the wall was removed too. The finish is close enough to the existing but not close enough for the patch (12" X 16'). The original is 30+ year old 2-1/4" red oak with a lot of grain and color variations that was sanded and finished in place with a gloss poly that has a lot of amber tint to it. I think a light coat of amber shellac would give it the color change I'm looking for, but I doubt it will stick to the new finish. By the way, the new finish is semi-gloss, and it also has the "micro-bevels". I think the can get away with the bevels but the color and sheen needs to be closer. I guess I'm looking for a simple solution; not sure it's going to happen.

 You might contact the manufacturer of the flooring to see if they have a suggestion as to what will adhere to the finish they applied.   Most of those finishes are almost bullet proof so chances are slim that it will adhere good enough for foot traffic.   Roly

[jteneyck]

The only way I know how to match colors really well is to practice on scrap.  Take a piece of scrap and see if the amber shellac gives you the color you are after and if it sticks to it.  If it sticks but the color is off then you can adjust the color of the shellac by adding Transtint dye to it.  By the way, I would only use dewaxed shellac as that has the best chance of bonding.  The only dewaxed shellac you can buy at the BORG is Sealcoat; all the others contain wax.  You can make any color from Sealcoat by adding one or more Transtint dyes to it.  Sealcoat will stick to darned nearly anything but if it doesn't then you will have to sand off the factory finish, use the Sealcoat + Transtint toner to get the color you want and then topcoat it.  You have to do this on scrap because it might take 20 or 30 samples to get it right, and you have to take any sample that looks promising through the entire process because everything you put on it will change the color. 

Sorry, but color matching often has no easy solution. 

John

[MstrCarpenter]

Thanks for the suggestions! Keep them coming.

I think the only thing I have going for me is that both the new and old flooring has a lot of grain and color variations. I tried to pick boards closest in color to the old. Some of them look like a nice cabinet grade red oak (and I didn't notice any quarter sawn), and others might as well have been white oak or ash. This is also how I would describe the floor I'm trying to match: I'm just missing the overall amber (orange) hue. The reds are too bright red, and the lighter ones don't really have any hint of orange. Looking at the Trans- tint color samples at Rockler's site, I'm leaning towards the Honey Amber and/or the Golden Brown. I was planning to sand the new (blending in with the old) with 220, then brush on the toner. Then comes the topcoat. Any suggestions? I'm not sure if it's polyurethane or some type of varnish, but it is high gloss. Will the alcohol/cotton swap test help determine a top coat? Should have paid more attention to "finishing" in High School.

Last year I did a pre-finished oak floor patch using the exact same product, only about 3 years newer. I tried Amber Shellac to help  "age" the new wood; it was too yellow. Several more attempts later I got either "good enough" or wore out my welcome. Probably a little of both because they put a carpet over most of it. I did learn something though. Both of these "patches" were required as a result of removing a supporting wall. In brief, that requires; Support the floor, walls, and roof above. Relocate plumbing and electrical. Remove wall and install built-up L.V.L. header with two or three jacks. Install joist hangers, strapping, and call for inspection. All that's left is a little drywall and paint to be about 50% complete because I still have to patch the floor and match the ceiling texture!