Posts: 741
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2006
(09-05-2018, 03:07 PM)mynameisjeff Wrote: I'm curious if you ever found a solution that worked for you. My parents are downsizing their house I my father let me take his Delta 36-546 Type 2. I don't know what it is with these older folks but he took off the entire guard assembly as well! I was able to find the guard but all the brackets to attach it are missing and, of course, he didn't keep any of the manuals.
I ran one MDF board through it that I ripped 1" off of and noped the hell away from that saw as the cut came rushing back through the saw. It'd be great to use it but the thing scares the crap out of me as is! Hopefully I can piggyback on your success and get this thing back in to safe operation. Thanks!
Jeeze Jeff, if any tool has you scared, just stay away from it. If you had a good grip on the wood going through the saw it couldn't have shot back at you. People let go when they get scared. If it was too narrow to hold then a push stick should have been used. Both examples apply whether there's a guard on the saw or not. Also keep a sharp blade on your saw. Good luck getting your confidence back.
Posts: 18,023
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2002
Make sure the saw is setup properly. The blade needs to be parallel to the fence if ripping. Plenty of info available on proper setup of a saw.
Also, I wouldn’t use a saw without a splitter. Boards have hidden stress in them and can pinch the blades after the cut. It’s not a matter of if it happens, but when. MJ splitter and Sharkguard are both good products I’ve used on my Delta saw.
John
Posts: 3,545
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2004
Location: Wisconsin
I don't know that particular saw, but check inside if there is a bracket to which you can bolt a strip of metal as a splitter. This can be a bit more stable than the also acceptable approach of attachment to the insert previously mentioned. If you do attach a splitter to an insert, make sure the insert can't shift.
If the splitter has a slot rather than a hole to bolt it in, and you can fit in a threaded knob rather than a nut, you can install and remove the splitter in seconds. That allows you to make various height splitters, some for non-through cuts, and one with a crown guard on top (as seen in Tage Frid's books -- highly recommended).
Posts: 879
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2002
Location: Robertsdale, Alabama
Both of the saw models mentioned in this thread are the smaller benchtop models.
We do not yet have splitter patterns for these saws, but would be happy to work with you to develop them.
We may also be able to design and fabricate missing mounting brackets in some cases.
Feel free to drop us an email with a model number and possibly a few images and I can let you know more about what may be possible.
Lee
Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2021
(09-06-2018, 10:48 AM)Alan S Wrote: I don't know that particular saw, but check inside if there is a bracket to which you can bolt a strip of metal as a splitter. This can be a bit more stable than the also acceptable approach of attachment to the insert previously mentioned. If you do attach a splitter to an insert, make sure the insert can't shift.
If the splitter has a slot rather than a hole to bolt it in, and you can fit in a threaded knob rather than a nut, you can install and remove the splitter in seconds. That allows you to make various height splitters, some for non-through cuts, and one with a crown guard on top (as seen in Tage Frid's books -- highly recommended).
Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2021
Did you ever solve your issue? I have a delta with similar challenge. I made the mounting hardware from some steel straps and it worked. The not too long ago I found a guy, on ebay, in Canada, from whom I bought an old splitter assembly. Tenacity won.
