Paint for kitchen island

[ed kerns]

I'm putting a bead board facing on the front of my kitchen island. The board is basically masonite with a white vinyl-like finished surface. I want to paint the board black. I've tried a small sample, painting the board with a rattle can of one of the 'sticks to plastic' type spray paints. The paint seems to adhere well to the surface, but now I'm wondering if I should clear coat over the paint to help protect from scuffing. This is a breakfast bar and no doubt will get kicked occasionally.
I should add that this is my second test piece. The first I primed with primer/bonder and rolled on a finish coat. I was unhappy with the rough finish off the roller. I'm sure I could do better with a different applicator, but for the 20 sq ' I have to do, a spray can would work well.

[Snipe Hunter]

I'd probably use a brushed on enamel for it's durability. I used it on my wife's vanity in the bathroom. It takes a week or to to get really hard but seems to be holding up well. My experience with rattle can paint is that it may not be very durable and it doesn't have a high build. imho, a high build is important to durability. Coating it with clear paint would probably help. If I were to do it, I'd spray or brush BullDog(adhesion promoter) on the piece and brush enamel over it. BullDog is basically glue.

[jteneyck]

I'm putting a bead board facing on the front of my kitchen island. The board is basically masonite with a white vinyl-like finished surface. I want to paint the board black. I've tried a small sample, painting the board with a rattle can of one of the 'sticks to plastic' type spray paints. The paint seems to adhere well to the surface, but now I'm wondering if I should clear coat over the paint to help protect from scuffing. This is a breakfast bar and no doubt will get kicked occasionally.
I should add that this is my second test piece. The first I primed with primer/bonder and rolled on a finish coat. I was unhappy with the rough finish off the roller. I'm sure I could do better with a different applicator, but for the 20 sq ' I have to do, a spray can would work well.

You might try GF's Hi Performance over the rattle can black using a foam brush if you can't spray.  If you can spray, I suggest GF's Enduro Clear Poly.  Of course try it on a sample first, no matter what you try.  

GF's Milk Paint comes in black, goes on very well with a brush, and is compatible with both of the above clearcoats.   

John

[Roly]

Sherwin Williams Pro Classic paint will do the job.  Suggest a foam roller to apply, it will look like it was sprayed.   Very durable and water wash up.    Look to spend $20 + dollars a quart.   Roly

[Cooler]

My expereince with matte finishes is that they scuff up easily and leave shiny spots.  

I tried Rustoleum Universal and was suprised how hard and durable the finish is.  Also the spray nozzle seems superior to others that I've used.  I would consider top coating with this product if it does not cause the underlying finish to blister.

[Cooler]

You might try GF's Hi Performance over the rattle can black using a foam brush if you can't spray.  If you can spray, I suggest GF's Enduro Clear Poly.  Of course try it on a sample first, no matter what you try.  

GF's Milk Paint comes in black, goes on very well with a brush, and is compatible with both of the above clearcoats.   

John

I too like GF's milk paint.  I used the recommended foam brush and it left a perfect finish.  No runs, no bubbles, just an even black finish.  It is 

However it does scuff easily and needs a top coat for durability.  When I tried a matte finish clear acrylic it made the black finish look gray.  It looked blackest under glossy finish, but I settled semi-gloss which looks OK.

White or light colors would not be so affected, however the original was about black.

In the future I think I will top coat with Minwax's Polyshades ebony for greater depth on the finish.