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Well I was partly right.
I did see it was a reeves drive and knew that type was a reeves drive and just said it wrong.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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(01-30-2019, 12:05 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: Well I was partly right.
I did see it was a reeves drive and knew that type was a reeves drive and just said it wrong.
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A small block of rosin for a violin bow can be held against the sides of a "V" belt while it is turning and a small amount of rosin will adhere to the belt...this will stop the slipping if the belt is adjusted correctly..It works to stop the blade from slipping in a wood-bodied plane also...Just use a small knife edge to shave some rosin onto the frog..
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(01-31-2019, 07:35 PM)Timberwolf Wrote: ....................
A small block of rosin for a violin bow can be held against the sides of a "V" belt while it is turning and a small amount of rosin will adhere to the belt...this will stop the slipping if the belt is adjusted correctly..It works to stop the blade from slipping in a wood-bodied plane also...Just use a small knife edge to shave some rosin onto the frog..
Thought all you old guys used chalk as a belt dressing.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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You can check out the drive train health and all, but the bottom line is you're putting more torque on the wood than the drive train can handle. You don't need to be so aggressive with your cuts. Back off some and let a sharp tool do the work for you. You may also want to make sure your speed is sufficient to prevent catches. A faster RPM will give the bowl more inertia to overcome catches. Some subscribe to the technique of a slower speed and lighter cuts.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
