Veritas Hold-Down: On Steroids

[Philip1231]

Derek

The hex shape of the knob is, IMO, not the best shape that could have been chosen from an ergonomics standpoint, hence the use of a wrench. The 1-3/4" wrench fits perfectly on the 1-3/4" hex knob: I guess it could be just a coincidence that the two mate perfectly? Clearly the coefficient of friction between the bench and the work, and between the hold down arm and the work are in play here, but the resistance to slipping of the work is influenced by the normal force applied by the hold down as well. My point is that from an ergonomic standpoint, the knob supplied with the hold down does not allow the standard man to conveniently apply all the normal force that could and should be applied (within the limits of the tool design), and I am merely suggesting that additional normal force can be applied with the judicious application of the wrench (snug it up with a half turn +/-).

There is just no way I am going to take a toothing blade to my bench top: form wins over function in this case. As I mentioned, I have used anti-slip pads (silicone non-slip pads intended for the kitchen counter work well), but there are times when I prefer to work on a naked bench, so to speak. In those instances, I make up for too little µ with more F (normal).

ex amicitia pax

Regards (back at you) from West Simsbury

Phil

Philip, the reason for the hexagonal shape is simply to grip the knob with a hand, not a spanner. If you need to wind it down harder and harder, you are likely to damage the hold-down. Plus your effort should be directed to dealing with the actual cause for slippage, which is the surface of your bench. How many others do you hear have problem? If they do not, then you should not. Finding a solution to a problem is exciting, and you are passionate to use your new tool. I get that. But it is not the solution. Try a toothing blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Z]

I do not have a LV holdfast, but to those that do, what material, other than the hex nut, is the unit made with? I wold be concerned with two scenarios: one, the stripping of the threads on the brass nut, or (dependng upon the other material, the internal threads the brass nut screws into. The second scenario is fatigue in the swivel joint, or the point at which the brass nut bears.

I wold explore using a leather pad, epoxied to the the underside of the work bearing part of the holdfast, and maybe a non-slip router pad under the workpiece.

[salmo]

I do not have a LV holdfast, but to those that do, what material, other than the hex nut, is the unit made with?  I wold be concerned with two scenarios:  one, the stripping of the threads on the brass nut, or (dependng upon the other material, the internal threads the brass nut screws into.  The second scenario is fatigue in the swivel joint, or the point at which the brass nut bears.

I wold explore using a leather pad, epoxied to the the underside of the work bearing part of the holdfast, and maybe a non-slip router pad under the workpiece.

from here :

Arm and body made from ZA-12 alloy; machined steel post; solid brass clamping knob

[Mike Brady]

Phillip-
Wish I could turn you around on the toothing blade treatment for your benchtop.  About once a year, I use my 5-1/2 or 62 + toothing blade to lightly clean off the bench top and renew that wonderful grip that the toothing blade imparts to the (ash) wood.  I found that using a regular plane  blade caused a lot of tear-out in the side grain of the laminated slab.  You never get that with toothing blade.  The amount of material removed overall is minuscule so the top is very nearly the original thickness of ten years ago.  I add no finish to the top, but sometimes will wipe it down with some soy-based graffiti remover that I keep around.  That renews the toothing and cleans off dirt and stains. I think my holdfasts (LN and LV) hold better on the toothed surface.

[Philip1231]

Mike:

I have no doubt that a rougher bench surface would help. However, my LN holdfasts hold without problem, on the same surface.
If i had a load cell, I could quantify the the difference in forces of the two hold fasts, but empirical evidence suggests that the LV holdfast needs more torque on the handle to achieve the same hold as the LN holdfast. Luckily this nice (American made) wrench seems to make the LV holdfast the equal of the LN holdfast. $18 including shippping: cant go wrong.

Phil

Phillip-
Wish I could turn you around on the toothing blade treatment for your benchtop.  About once a year, I use my 5-1/2 or 62 + toothing blade to lightly clean off the bench top and renew that wonderful grip that the toothing blade imparts to the (ash) wood.  I found that using a regular plane  blade caused a lot of tear-out in the side grain of the laminated slab.  You never get that with toothing blade.  The amount of material removed overall is minuscule so the top is very nearly the original thickness of ten years ago.  I add no finish to the top, but sometimes will wipe it down with some soy-based graffiti remover that I keep around.  That renews the toothing and cleans off dirt and stains. I think my holdfasts (LN and LV) hold better on the toothed surface.