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Bill Smith and Dennis Kneeling both recomend reducing the angle of your pieces by 1/3 The same as the 1/3 reduction in segment length. They are 2 of the best in the country and I have always done that. BUT I am playing around with a possible design where that will not work. Small pieces with a few spots where the rows would need to be cut from wider than normal stock due to the slope of the finished exterior. When I do that, the short points hit, or in some rows the reduced angle would actually cause the pieces to not be deep eneough. What are the recomendations here. Cut the angle the same as you would a closed segment piece on every row or adjust on only the rows that are affected Hope that is not too confusing
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Location: Central Indiana
For the last open-segment piece I did, I kept the angle the same and only shortened the segment length. This made the sides of each open space parallel instead of wedged and this the look I was aiming for.
I would post a pic but the piece is not here anymore.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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Bill just sold most of his shop. I've know Bill since the 90s. I spent a weekend with him learning his process.
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Thanks for the replies. I think I will use the closed segment angle on all of the rows. That will keep the openings parallel. Sorry to hear Bill sold his stuff. His book is what started me on open segmenting. My wife bought it for me at a garage sale. I had never seen anything like that before. Very informative and easy to understand. His book gives eneough info and templates that anyone can get into open segmented work for virtually little or no extra money. Not sure if I would have even tried it if it cost a lot of money to start, The pieces looked pretty intimadating to turn, but as stated in the book are much stronger than they look.I have upgraded my positioning setup thanks to my brother who is a CNC machinist, but still glue each piece individually while on the lathe. That way I can sand each level to make sure all pieces are exactly the same height. They are all run thru a performax 16-32 first, but I feel that this helps keep any problems from being compounded. I can glue a ring and then go and cut the next row of pieces. By then the glue has set eneough to sand the faces with a piece of self stiick sandpaper on a piece of wood. Like all other woodworking it is a slippry slope and I have upgraded a lot of tooling beyond the basics, but his book started it all for me and I wish him well. Wish that like you I had the opportunity to meet him in person
