Tormek leather wheel vs Stones for sharpness

[Timberwolf]

I'm just starting to use the Tormek.  For those with more experience do you find the leather wheel can get your irons as sharp as a 8000 grit stone?

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For those with more experience do you find the leather wheel can get your irons as sharp as a 8000 grit stone?

If you know how to use a power strop "correctly", whether it is a wheel or a belt the answer is yes..The 'trick" is understanding how it needs to be used.,Improper use can blunt an edge quickly no matter whether it is done with a power strop or an 8,000 grit stone. Holding a consistent angle is key..if you can do that by hand, so much the better..

But if you are taking the tool off a Tormek wheel and then to the leather wheel, the answer is no. The Tormek stone is too coarse and will leave extremely fine serrations to the edge that power stropping wont remove..without spending all day stropping...A stone of 1,000 grit or finer can take the edge to the point that a power strop can remove those "fine serrations", but there again, holding a consistent angle is essential. Just like it is when hand stropping...Remember that the compound you are using on the strop is the abrasive that is actually polishing away the fine serrations....Try charging your leather wheel with one micron diamond paste and see how well it works for you..I think you will be surprised...When you are done, you should be able to touch you edge to a single hair on your arm and have it fly off into space. It's beyond "scary sharp"..it is "hair-poppingly" sharp.

[tablesawtom]

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For those with more experience do you find the leather wheel can get your irons as sharp as a 8000 grit stone?

If you know how to use a power strop "correctly", whether it is a wheel or a belt the answer is yes..The 'trick" is understanding how it needs to be used.,Improper use can blunt an edge quickly no matter whether it is done with a power strop or an 8,000 grit stone. Holding a consistent angle is key..if you can do that by hand, so much the better..

But if you are taking the tool off a Tormek wheel and then to the leather wheel, the answer is no. The Tormek stone is too coarse and will leave extremely fine serrations to the edge that power stropping wont remove..without spending all day stropping...A stone of 1,000 grit or finer can take the edge to the point that a power strop can remove those "fine serrations", but there again, holding a consistent angle is essential. Just like it is when hand stropping...Remember that the compound you are using on the strop is the abrasive that is actually polishing away the fine serrations....Try charging your leather wheel with one micron diamond paste and see how well it works for you..I think you will be surprised...When you are done, you should be able to touch you edge to a single hair on your arm and have it fly off into space. It's beyond "scary sharp"..it is "hair-poppingly" sharp.

I think that Tormek would argue with you over the the fact that their wheel is two course for the leather wheel to work properly. They claim that the fine dressed wheel is in the 1000 grit category and you yourself state 1000 grit stone  is fine enough.  I get a cutting edge that one can shave with on a Tormek. And I am sure others can too.

I believe I stated that I prefer a Veritas honing guide because I can get consistent results even 4 months latter, as far as keeping the angle consistent. Are you doubting the the Veritas honing guide is able enough to hold a constant angle. I also stated that it was quicker for me to use stone than to go home and get water to refresh a cutting edge.  I also know that Tormek makes a honing compound designed for their leather wheel. I am sorry that I thought that charging a leather wheel or strop was understood. I stated that I have a tormek and the honing compound is part of the system. I am sorry that I thought most people were smart enough to know that the leather wheel or strop needs a honing compound to work properly. Maybe they are not and that it needs to be spelled out for them.

So it you take time to really read what I wrote, you read between the lines because that is what you wanted to do, you will find out that your rebuttal is  actually saying the same thing as what I wrote. 

Tom

[Timberwolf]

I think that Tormek would argue with you over the the fact that their wheel is two course for the leather wheel to work properly. They claim that the fine dressed wheel is in the 1000 grit category and you yourself state 1000 grit stone  is fine enough.  I get a cutting edge that one can shave with on a Tormek. And I am sure others can too.

I believe I stated that I prefer a Veritas honing guide because I can get consistent results even 4 months latter, as far as keeping the angle consistent. Are you doubting the the Veritas honing guide is able enough to hold a constant angle. I also stated that it was quicker for me to use stone than to go home and get water to refresh a cutting edge.  I also know that Tormek makes a honing compound designed for their leather wheel. I am sorry that I thought that charging a leather wheel or strop was understood. I stated that I have a tormek and the honing compound is part of the system. I am sorry that I thought most people were smart enough to know that the leather wheel or strop needs a honing compound to work properly. Maybe they are not and that it needs to be spelled out for them.

So it you take time to really read what I wrote, you read between the lines because that is what you wanted to do, you will find out that your rebuttal is  actually saying the same thing as what I wrote. 

Tom

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It was not intended to be a "rebuttal" at all...in fact I think it supports your claim...What I am saying is you can get an even sharper edge if you take it to a finer grit than what you can get directly off the Tormek wheel..Altho for most woodworking that may be picking nits...it certainly would not be sharp enough for shaving with a straight razor..even tho it could shave hairs...My daily carry pocketknife is shaving sharp and I make sure it stays that way by power stropping....But try cutting hairs ABOVE the skin instead of laying the edge against the skin...to me that is the ultimate in sharpness but far more than is needed for woodworking. It is hard to achieve an edge that sharp...extremely hard, but doable...Take a look at some of the straight razor forums..
Sharpen is a hobby of mine in addition to wood and metal working, and I have been at it for more than 65yrs.I am 88yrs old and have worked around and on machinery my adult life.. I have a Tormek and a Jet wet sharpener, A Reliant horizontal grinder, several belt grinders, a MKII Veritas with diamond laps and several home made power strops and buffers...I use them for making woodcarving knives..and I am still searching for the "ultimate edge" and the ultimate steel...And BTW, I do recommend sharpening jigs, especially for those who don't want to spend the time to learn how to freehand correctly..Freehand will never be as accurate as a jig but it is a timesaver as you know, once the skill is learned...