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How did the test go?
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(12-10-2021, 12:21 AM)Stwood_ Wrote: How did the test go?
It went fine. the tire is still on there. It's not going to move. However I think I need a new blade. The blade doesn't seem to want to stay in place on the top wheel. I'm wondering if it got bent when the tire came off. Also the way this saw is constructed the top wheel wants to hit one side of the housing on the top. The top
housing is slightly tilted. The way this saw is built It's held on only by 2 bolts at the bottom of the housing, there's nothing at the top to hold it in place so it can lean to one side. I had the wheel tilt adjusted so this didn't happen. the blade was on there for 2 years until I had the tire problem. Now it wants to walk off the wheel so I suspect the blade was bent. I'll doublecheck that the wheels are co-planar put another blade on it and see what happens. I'm also going to try to engineer a way to keep the upper housing in place, and further away from the wheel.
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(12-08-2021, 07:25 PM)crokett™ Wrote: The blade is a Timberwolf. It still seems sharp. Most of what this saw does is cut blanks for pens. The blade hasn’t seen a ton of use. I’ll test it tomorrow and see if it’s any better.
...........
Bob got it right..Glue it and forget it, Dave.
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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Another update... I decided to go ahead and glue the lower tire while I had the blade off. I figured it was a matter of time. I glued that tire up. I fabbed a bracket out of aluminum for more support for the upper wheel housing. Then I decided to check the wheels for co-planar. The top wheel is out about 3/16" from the bottom wheel. I tried taking the top wheel off to shim behind it. It wouldn't move. I found a youtube video where a guy restores the same saw (an Atlas 12" bandsaw). He uses a gear puller to remove the wheels. So I got one and will pull the top wheel and get it better aligned to the bottom.
I also discovered that on my saw the blade guard for the left side (where the blade is moving up) is missing. I may try to replace it or fab one. It looks better, and of course is safer.
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(12-22-2021, 09:56 AM)crokett™ Wrote: Another update... I decided to go ahead and glue the lower tire while I had the blade off. I figured it was a matter of time. I glued that tire up. I fabbed a bracket out of aluminum for more support for the upper wheel housing. Then I decided to check the wheels for co-planar. The top wheel is out about 3/16" from the bottom wheel. I tried taking the top wheel off to ***** behind it. It wouldn't move. I found a youtube video where a guy restores the same saw (an Atlas 12" bandsaw). He uses a gear puller to remove the wheels. So I got one and will pull the top wheel and get it better aligned to the bottom.
I also discovered that on my saw the blade guard for the left side (where the blade is moving up) is missing. I may try to replace it or fab one. It looks better, and of course is safer.
If your saw is an Atlas 912, you've got one of the best 12" band saws ever made. Most 14" saws of today aren't that heavily built.
Go over to owwm.org and type in the search box: Atlas 912
Get some popcorn. There are a lot of fans of that little saw.
$92.00 in 1950. Adjusted for today's inflation, that's $1088.00 and it is probably less motor. Its still better built than any saw of that price today.
Atlas 912
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Yes, it's a 912. Mine is arranged differently than that one. The stand is wider and the motor is mounted beside the saw rather than underneath it. Mine is also painted gray. I was thinking I might do a full resto during the summer. We'll see.
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(12-27-2021, 11:41 AM)crokett™ Wrote: Yes, it's a 912. Mine is arranged differently than that one. The stand is wider and the motor is mounted beside the saw rather than underneath it. Mine is also painted gray. I was thinking I might do a full resto during the summer. We'll see.
The stand/motor/switch configuration is usually variable depending on the user's ability and budget. I think that saw came without a stand/motor/switch in one configuration.
The only change I would make to that saw is to get some square HSS lathe tool bits and cut and grind them to fit. The bronze factory ones seem good but the setscrew tip digs in and creates an indexing crater unless you flip the block each time you adjust the guides and even then you'll eventually run out of clean sides to bite into.
