Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
I’m looking for some help replacing the cutter head on an F31 jointer. Does anyone have any wisdom to share?
Posts: 12,883
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(12-17-2021, 09:13 AM)Minimax-JRP Wrote: I’m looking for some help replacing the cutter head on an F31 jointer. Does anyone have any wisdom to share?
I have an FX-35. The head is bolted to the frame with 4 hex head cap screws IIRC. I removed it when I moved the machine into my basement shop. The screws had thread locker on them when originally installed and caused serious worry that I'd break them during removal. Fortunately, none did. I have no idea how to dissolve that thread locker to make removal of the screws less troublesome, but maybe someone else here does.
There should be no shims under the head, as there may be under the table hinges, but check carefully when you pull the head and make sure you put them back in the same locations when reinstalling it. Good luck.
John
Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
I have the 4 bolts removed and was hoping I could just slide the head out from under table. That didn’t happen. Is it possible to remove the head without removing the tables? Or is my next step to remove the pulley? Or?
Thanks for your reply!
Jon
Posts: 12,883
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(12-18-2021, 08:39 AM)Minimax-JRP Wrote: I have the 4 bolts removed and was hoping I could just slide the head out from under table. That didn’t happen. Is it possible to remove the head without removing the tables? Or is my next step to remove the pulley? Or?
Thanks for your reply!
Jon
Ah, so you have a traditional jointer. Mine is a J/P so the tables lift up, out of the way, making it easy to remove the head. What's it look like with the front cover plate removed? If there isn't enough room to slide the head out from the front or back then I'd say you're going to have to remove at least one and likely both of the tables. If the pulley is the only thing standing in your way that should be easy to remove with a gear puller. If the pulley can't be removed and the head won't slide out in that direction then I think the answer is fairly obvious.
At least you have managed to remove the bolts w/o breaking them. Small victory for sure. Good luck.
John
Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
(12-18-2021, 10:23 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Ah, so you have a traditional jointer. Mine is a J/P so the tables lift up, out of the way, making it easy to remove the head. What's it look like with the front cover plate removed? If there isn't enough room to slide the head out from the front or back then I'd say you're going to have to remove at least one and likely both of the tables. If the pulley is the only thing standing in your way that should be easy to remove with a gear puller. If the pulley can't be removed and the head won't slide out in that direction then I think the answer is fairly obvious.
At least you have managed to remove the bolts w/o breaking them. Small victory for sure. Good luck.
John
Progress today. I was able to work the head back and forth enough to get the bearing opposite the pulley to release from the frame. The cutter head then slid out from under the tables easy enough. Now I can work on pulling the bearings and pulley while on the bench.
I’ll order up the helical head and put this guy back together.
Thanks.
Posts: 12,883
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(12-20-2021, 09:11 PM)Minimax-JRP Wrote: Progress today. I was able to work the head back and forth enough to get the bearing opposite the pulley to release from the frame. The cutter head then slid out from under the tables easy enough. Now I can work on pulling the bearings and pulley while on the bench.
I’ll order up the helical head and put this guy back together.
Thanks.
Definitely good news. Should be pretty straightforward going back together with the new head. If those are stock bearings I would install new ones on the new head and not have think about replacing them for the next 25 - 30 years.
John
Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
(12-20-2021, 10:05 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Definitely good news. Should be pretty straightforward going back together with the new head. If those are stock bearings I would install new ones on the new head and not have think about replacing them for the next 25 - 30 years.
John
Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2021
I 100% agree on installing new bearings when reassembling. Those were ordered with the new head, cross-checking the correct size from the old stock bearing to the spec./drawing on the new.
My plan is to assemble as much as I can on the bench - both the bearings and the block along with the pulley. I’ll attach the other block to the frame and use a wire or string to help guide the new cutter head assembly under and thru the tables. Once I get that last bearing lined up with the attached block I’m hoping I can press that bearing into the block using a pipe clamp across the whole works. Q. Would you recommend I use a little light oil or WD40 to help press the bearings into the blocks?
Then off to the races to check and align the tables with the new head and give it a spin.
Posts: 12,883
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
There are others here with far more machine related experience than me so maybe they will give you some good feedback. With the few bearings I've replaced I made sure to get everything really clean and then I wiped the mating surfaces with oil, more so to prevent rust than aid in assembly. What has worked well for me in easing assembly has been to heat the bearing and chill the shaft to get the bearing onto the shaft, and to then heat the receptacle and chill the bearing. When I couldn't heat the receptacle, I just chilled the bearing and it still helped significantly.
John
