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Buying a used BS that comes with two used 1 1/4" carbide tipped blades. The seller doesn't remember where the blades were bought or what brand they are. The only markings I can find is "UDDEHOLM" etched into the band. Anyone know of a sharpening service that might sharpen them?
Thanks, Gary
I've only had one...in dog beers.
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(04-25-2022, 06:40 PM)shoottmx Wrote: Buying a used BS that comes with two used 1 1/4" carbide tipped blades. The seller doesn't remember where the blades were bought or what brand they are. The only markings I can find is "UDDEHOLM" etched into the band. Anyone know of a sharpening service that might sharpen them?
Thanks, Gary
Try
CT Saw. The saw they sharpen carbide BS blades.
John
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Thanks John,
Will check with them
Gary
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Be aware that depending on the material of the blade band, the diameter of the bandsaw wheels, and the thickness of the band itself (not the teeth), the bands may fatigue to the point of failure before a resharpened blade pays back the cost of sharpening.
Talk to your sharpener. If I recall correctly, thick blades bending over small (under 18"-ish) diameter wheels are not recommended for sharpening.
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(04-26-2022, 09:03 AM)FireWood Wrote: Be aware that depending on the material of the blade band, the diameter of the bandsaw wheels, and the thickness of the band itself (not the teeth), the bands may fatigue to the point of failure before a resharpened blade pays back the cost of sharpening.
Talk to your sharpener. If I recall correctly, thick blades bending over small (under 18"-ish) diameter wheels are not recommended for sharpening.
That's one reason I learned to resharpen my carbide bandsaw blade. The Lennox Woodmaster CT I use costs about $175. The cost to resharpen it is something like $75 by the time I pay shipping both ways. If it breaks before I get about 50% more use out of it I loose. But I can sharpen it for nearly nothing using little diamond embedded disks on a Dremel tool. Any additional life I get is a bonus. Both Derek Cohen and I have posted about how to sharpen carbide bandsaw blades.
With the 1.3 tpi blade I use sharpening it takes less than 30 minutes, and it cuts like new again afterwards.
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Had a discussion via text with Laguna, turns out these are resaw kings so I'll send them there. It's a 20 inch saw so there shouldn't be an issue with fatigue.
Thanks for the info!
Gary
I've only had one...in dog beers.
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(04-26-2022, 02:09 PM)shoottmx Wrote: Had a discussion via text with Laguna, turns out these are resaw kings so I'll send them there. It's a 20 inch saw so there shouldn't be an issue with fatigue.
Thanks for the info!
Gary
It looked like a Resaw King in the photo. I wonder who is private branding for whom? FWIW, fatigue happens at all wheel diameters, increasing with decreasing diameter. l
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(04-26-2022, 06:10 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I wonder who is private branding for whom?
John
John,
Uddeholm is a Swedish company that makes the steel band material for Laguna as well as many other saw blade manufacturers.
gary
I've only had one...in dog beers.
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(04-26-2022, 09:28 AM)jteneyck Wrote: That's one reason I learned to resharpen my carbide bandsaw blade. The Lennox Woodmaster CT I use costs about $175. The cost to resharpen it is something like $75 by the time I pay shipping both ways. If it breaks before I get about 50% more use out of it I loose. But I can sharpen it for nearly nothing using little diamond embedded disks on a Dremel tool. Any additional life I get is a bonus. Both Derek Cohen and I have posted about how to sharpen carbide bandsaw blades.
With the 1.3 tpi blade I use sharpening it takes less than 30 minutes, and it cuts like new again afterwards.
John
...............
I posted my technique ~15yrs ago on this forum...I use a round diamond burr if the blade has round bottom gullets..a disc if they don't. They cut better than new and there used to be a Youtube video proving that statement. The poster rigged up a test on his bandsaw and filmed it...Can't find it now but it was very interesting.
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(04-27-2022, 01:40 PM)Timberwolf Wrote: ...............
I posted my technique ~15yrs ago on this forum...I use a round diamond burr if the blade has round bottom gullets..a disc if they don't. They cut better than new and there used to be a Youtube video proving that statement. The poster rigged up a test on his bandsaw and filmed it...Can't find it now but it was very interesting.
I've been doing it myself for close to 10. But I mostly use cheap blades. Cutting blanks for turning with the bark (and dirt) on - you dull blades awfully quickly.
