07-11-2022, 10:29 AM
I have to say this because it will help explain what I am saying in my next post.
All of you have been lied to for so long that it has become the truth. And the first thing that is usually stated is that wood has to be acclimated when it arrives at home. It is an out and out lie. The only effect that moisture has on wood is size. You believe that moisture is the problem because it is always mentioned here on this forum and usually by those who want to appear to be knowledgeable. And that they just want to be heard. Just because it is said often enough doesn't make it true. One can not glue into a cross grain joint because of wood movement is true but That it is true only because wood grows in width, but not really along with the grain so the joint is self destructive. The wood I got for the bench was stored in a shed, open to ambient air conditions. My shop is also open to ambient air conditions, do you really think that in 20 miles the wood needs to be climatized? ? ?
Please do not come to me with the difference between fir and Ash .And how fir twists or squeeze's against the back of the blade because of the moisture in it. And that can be stopped if the board is somehow allowed to stabilize for 6 months or more, And if it sets long enough the moisture will go away. It can close up around the blade or open up away from the blade. Usually if board closes up it is from case hardening from drying to quickly not the moisture content. There is as much of a difference between night and day in wood species. It is like the difference cement and black top. Both are road surfaces only. Construction lumber and hardwood also have different scales that they are controlled by.
Again, just think about it. All moisture effects is size and moisture travels from greater to lesser. And the greater the difference the faster the transfer. Yes, the wood can get bigger or smaller but that is all. Period!
But there is growing stress in the tree as it competes for light, and different seasonal conditions, cutting stress, sawing and drying stress and all of that needs to be released. Did I mention, or could it just be, the is nature of the medium itself. Fact, that there are other contributing factors, wood cups to the bark side of a tree because the growth rings want to go straight. The inside of the tree should be the out side of the drawer because of it cups, the corners will remain tight. And the cup is more pronounced if it is flat sawn and more toward the out side of the tree where the growth rings are more pronounced.
Now it a cut is made down the center of the board where the growth rings are in the tightest radius then the tension band in the growth rings are release and now the board doesn't have the tension band and it become more stable, because the growth bands become straighter.
Please stay with me even, if you think I am stupid, and that I am talking out the side of my head. Again you believe moisture is the problem because it is stated here on the forum and usually by those who just want to be heard or read it and want to appear like they are know something. Just because it is said or printed doesn't make it true
Again, I person go into Home Depot and buys enough construction grade wood to build a bench. Noe construction grade wood is usually dried to between 15 and 20 present. It is bound together on a pallet. You go ito a climite controlled room, select the wood you want , and take it home. and it is either in a garage or something that is open to ambient air conditions. Here in Iowa the humidly bounces like a yo-yo but the average level is 15%. Does it not seem strange to you that they kind of equal each other out.
Also it is argued here that some say it needed to be stickered while it is being climatized, others say no because it has already been kiln dried. Lets say you buy wood from who ever, not to just pick on home Depot. It has been bound in a pallet ( which prevents wood movement it is cut open and you make your selection and take it home. Only to find out in a day or two that some of it has cupped and or twisted. Because of the fact that wood taking on moisture is a slow process, my question is that, is it the moisture levels of the wood effecting it or is it something else?
Please don't just say Tom is stupid and doesn't really know anything. Really think about it. Really evaluate what you already know, not what the populous says they think they know. It is like someone wanting you to taste something, so you give in and touch some it it to your tongue. Then you say I was right I don't care for it. You didn't really give it a chance you just appeased someone and nothing changed.
The next post will possible placate some you. because of what and how I am doing it. So stay tuned. Moisture effects size and possible texture of wood only , inherent propertied in wood cause the other effects. Does it not seem strange to you the it is also where the construction begins.
All of you have been lied to for so long that it has become the truth. And the first thing that is usually stated is that wood has to be acclimated when it arrives at home. It is an out and out lie. The only effect that moisture has on wood is size. You believe that moisture is the problem because it is always mentioned here on this forum and usually by those who want to appear to be knowledgeable. And that they just want to be heard. Just because it is said often enough doesn't make it true. One can not glue into a cross grain joint because of wood movement is true but That it is true only because wood grows in width, but not really along with the grain so the joint is self destructive. The wood I got for the bench was stored in a shed, open to ambient air conditions. My shop is also open to ambient air conditions, do you really think that in 20 miles the wood needs to be climatized? ? ?
Please do not come to me with the difference between fir and Ash .And how fir twists or squeeze's against the back of the blade because of the moisture in it. And that can be stopped if the board is somehow allowed to stabilize for 6 months or more, And if it sets long enough the moisture will go away. It can close up around the blade or open up away from the blade. Usually if board closes up it is from case hardening from drying to quickly not the moisture content. There is as much of a difference between night and day in wood species. It is like the difference cement and black top. Both are road surfaces only. Construction lumber and hardwood also have different scales that they are controlled by.
Again, just think about it. All moisture effects is size and moisture travels from greater to lesser. And the greater the difference the faster the transfer. Yes, the wood can get bigger or smaller but that is all. Period!
But there is growing stress in the tree as it competes for light, and different seasonal conditions, cutting stress, sawing and drying stress and all of that needs to be released. Did I mention, or could it just be, the is nature of the medium itself. Fact, that there are other contributing factors, wood cups to the bark side of a tree because the growth rings want to go straight. The inside of the tree should be the out side of the drawer because of it cups, the corners will remain tight. And the cup is more pronounced if it is flat sawn and more toward the out side of the tree where the growth rings are more pronounced.
Now it a cut is made down the center of the board where the growth rings are in the tightest radius then the tension band in the growth rings are release and now the board doesn't have the tension band and it become more stable, because the growth bands become straighter.
Please stay with me even, if you think I am stupid, and that I am talking out the side of my head. Again you believe moisture is the problem because it is stated here on the forum and usually by those who just want to be heard or read it and want to appear like they are know something. Just because it is said or printed doesn't make it true
Again, I person go into Home Depot and buys enough construction grade wood to build a bench. Noe construction grade wood is usually dried to between 15 and 20 present. It is bound together on a pallet. You go ito a climite controlled room, select the wood you want , and take it home. and it is either in a garage or something that is open to ambient air conditions. Here in Iowa the humidly bounces like a yo-yo but the average level is 15%. Does it not seem strange to you that they kind of equal each other out.
Also it is argued here that some say it needed to be stickered while it is being climatized, others say no because it has already been kiln dried. Lets say you buy wood from who ever, not to just pick on home Depot. It has been bound in a pallet ( which prevents wood movement it is cut open and you make your selection and take it home. Only to find out in a day or two that some of it has cupped and or twisted. Because of the fact that wood taking on moisture is a slow process, my question is that, is it the moisture levels of the wood effecting it or is it something else?
Please don't just say Tom is stupid and doesn't really know anything. Really think about it. Really evaluate what you already know, not what the populous says they think they know. It is like someone wanting you to taste something, so you give in and touch some it it to your tongue. Then you say I was right I don't care for it. You didn't really give it a chance you just appeased someone and nothing changed.
The next post will possible placate some you. because of what and how I am doing it. So stay tuned. Moisture effects size and possible texture of wood only , inherent propertied in wood cause the other effects. Does it not seem strange to you the it is also where the construction begins.