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10-14-2022, 10:37 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-14-2022, 10:54 AM by atgcpaul.)
I can build a <150sqft shed in my county without a permit so I am going to build a 10x14 lean-to shed. I realize 10x14 isn't an ideal dimension for material use. I get that, but I'm set on 10x14.
I don't want to shoot myself in the foot and lay out the decking to exactly 10x14 if I should downsize it a bit because I'll end up using more siding (LP Smartside), for example.
I keep thinking through all the scenarios in my head, but I can't foresee an issue with just building the floor to 10x14. I'll miter trim boards at the 4 corners to cover any gaps.
What am I forgetting?
Thanks,
Paul
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Location: Lewiston, NY
(10-14-2022, 10:37 AM)atgcpaul Wrote: I can build a <150sqft shed in my county without a permit so I am going to build a 10x14 lean-to shed. I realize 10x14 isn't an ideal dimension for material use. I get that, but I'm set on 10x14.
I don't want to shoot myself in the foot and lay out the decking to exactly 10x14 if I should downsize it a bit because I'll end up using more siding (LP Smartside), for example.
I keep thinking through all the scenarios in my head, but I can't foresee an issue with just building the floor to 10x14. I'll miter trim boards at the 4 corners to cover any gaps.
What am I forgetting?
Thanks,
Paul
Probably a lot but you'll figure it out. I used LP Smartside on my solar wood drier; nice stuff and 2 or 3 years later it still looks new. As far as the corners go, just butt join the corner trim boards. Miters (bevels in this case) are harder to cut and open up over time. You can easily nail butt joints and the parts stay together.
John
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Butt joint corner trim. Miters expose more product to weather.
Preprime(or caulk) and put the joints so they are not seen from the most used direction.
Build for desired size, not to build product dimensions.