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Location: RTP, NC
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Yea, was gonna say use alum or SS, as you won't want a rusty mess up there in a few years.
These coated screws these days are lacking on protective coating for rust issues.
And of course, SS is sky high these day.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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You can get self drilling screws with machine threads, or drill your own hole and get self-threading screws. They hold much better and are available in S.S.. Another option is aluminum sleeve rivet nuts. Whatever you choose, remember, it's a lot easier to paint the heads first.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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Forgot to mention another way I use to drill and tap soft or thinner metal; it's a combination drill bit and tap in my cordless drill. (The clutch helps add a limit of torque. Haven't snapped one yet.) Drilling tubes, there just has to be enough extra space for the drill portion of the bit. They're available in most of the smaller SAE and metric sizes. I have a set of both.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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(12-21-2023, 11:37 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Forgot to mention another way I use to drill and tap soft or thinner metal; it's a combination drill bit and tap in my cordless drill. (The clutch helps add a limit of torque. Haven't snapped one yet.) Drilling tubes, there just has to be enough extra space for the drill portion of the bit. They're available in most of the smaller SAE and metric sizes. I have a set of both.
Thanks.
I hung the lights yesterday and all went well. I ended up using the screws that came with the clips\fasteners. I did pre-drill with a 1/8" drill bit and I set my chordless drill on the 3rd or 4th torque setting.
