Help with repairing a Record No.53 woodworking vise

[Blacky's Boy]

I have an old Record No.53 woodworking vise that's been installed on my workbench since I made it back in 2001. Recently the screw stopped functioning properly. I found out that the pin on the back of the screw shaft had sheared clean off. Once that was gone, the retaining plate was able to fall off. I removed the screw and saw the sheared off pin Stull embedded in the end of the screw shaft. I tried punching it out, but it work not budge. I thought, "maybe the pin is tapered?", and tried to work out from the other side. But that didn't seem to budge it.

The pin is cleanly sheared so it's flush with the OD of the shaft on both sides. Otherwise, I'd measure the exposed portion to determine if it's tapered. I'm at a loss what to do. I'd like to try applying heat and then give it another shot. But I'm afraid of breaking the end of the shaft.

Any ideas?

[Timberwolf]

I have an old Record No.53 woodworking vise that's been installed on my workbench since I made it back in 2001. Recently the screw stopped functioning properly. I found out that the pin on the back of the screw shaft had sheared clean off. Once that was gone,  the retaining plate was able to fall off. I removed the screw and saw the sheared off pin Stull embedded in the end of the screw shaft. I tried punching it out, but it work not budge. I thought, "maybe the pin is tapered?", and tried to work out from the other side. But that didn't seem to budge it.

The pin is cleanly sheared so it's flush with the OD of the shaft on both sides. Otherwise,  I'd measure the exposed portion to determine if it's tapered. I'm at a loss what to do. I'd like to try applying heat and then give it another shot. But I'm afraid of breaking the end of the shaft.

Any ideas?

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Hi Dom...Nice to see you posting again...In regards to the sheared pin, have you considered drilling it out or is there a reason you are reluctant to do it?. I know the pin is probably no larger than an eighth of an inch in diameter so it will require a small HSS drill to bore it out...You could drill it slightly oversize and make a new pin to replace it.

[tablesawtom]

Usually if you drill an undersized hole in the pin you should then be able to knock it out.

Tom

[Timberwolf]

Usually if you drill an undersized hole in the pin you should then be able to knock it out.

Tom

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I agree...the problem is the small size drill used to make the hole is very delicate and might snap off in the hole which would complicate the problem in attempting to drill the pin oversize. I would not be opposed to using heat on it, then trying to knock it out. But I would support the shaft between two "V" blocks, placed as close to the pin hole as possible. The idea is to provide a firm base so as to get a solid blow on the pin punch and to reduce the "rebound" as much as possible.

[C. in Indy]

Also,  most drill bits will wear down very fast on a hardened roll-pin.   A small carbide Dremel tip might help remove some of the inner diameter.   This can be very tedious!

[Timberwolf]

Also,  most drill bits will wear down very fast on a hardened roll-pin.   A small carbide Dremel tip might help remove some of the inner diameter.   This can be very tedious!

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Dom said that he at first thought the pin might be tapered so that would rule out it being a roll- pin. But once the sheared pin is out, I would strongly consider replacing it with a roll-pin. Or I may want to drill the end of the screw-shaft and drill and tap it for a 5/16" bolt and flat washer...eliminating the pin altogether.

[Cliff Ober]

I have an old Record No.53 woodworking vise that's been installed on my workbench since I made it back in 2001. Recently the screw stopped functioning properly. I found out that the pin on the back of the screw shaft had sheared clean off. Once that was gone,  the retaining plate was able to fall off. I removed the screw and saw the sheared off pin Stull embedded in the end of the screw shaft. I tried punching it out, but it work not budge. I thought, "maybe the pin is tapered?", and tried to work out from the other side. But that didn't seem to budge it.

The pin is cleanly sheared so it's flush with the OD of the shaft on both sides. Otherwise,  I'd measure the exposed portion to determine if it's tapered. I'm at a loss what to do. I'd like to try applying heat and then give it another shot. But I'm afraid of breaking the end of the shaft.

Any ideas?

Try looking for a business that does EDM machining (Electro-discharge machining).  It's often used to salvage auto or expensive industrial parts and is fairly inexpensive. Some years back I had half a dozen broken studs removed from a VW waterboxer crankcase and paid less than 50 bucks to for the job. Threads in the case were absolutely perfect and undamaged when I got it back. It's a good option any time drilling is difficult or impossible.

[Blacky's Boy]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I ordered a nice set of punches and they arrived yesterday. I intend to give them a shot (so to speak) this week sometime. I have a project on my bench I need to complete. (It's a set of finger jointed boxes for inspection standards at work).