Wood for Shutters

[Gary G™]

I usually get my Cypress from a sawmill but I had a need they couldn’t provide.

For quality Cypress, you might try LumberPlus, https://lumberplus.com.
Depending on how much you need, it could be worth shipping.
I paid about $2.00/BF for the Cypress I picked up from them.
Really nice quality.

[TFM]

I built some house shutters 5 years ago using white pine for the frames and MDO for the solid panels.  After 5 years they are badly rotted.  I never would have expected that.  I used primer and SW's Emerald exerior paint, yet the water got in and did it's work.  So now I have to replace them.  

I've been thinking about using AZEK for both the frames and panels, but am concerned about warpage of the frames in the hot sun.  This is WNY, but it still gets really hot in the afternoon when facing west, which these shutters do.  Then I thought about Utile, Spanish cedar, and northern white cedar.  I can get 5/4 Utile locally.  Not sure about the Spanish cedar or northern white cedar though.  Has anyone used AZEK or any of these woods for exterior shutters?  I'm planning to use 1/2" PVC sheet for the panels, no matter what the frames are made of.  

John

I was talking to a friend of mine recently about needing to replace some rotting exterior steps and balusters, complaining that they rot so quickly.  He mentioned that he always coats any exterior wood (he had replaced some soffits years ago) with a water sealer like Thompsons multi surface waterseal.  I just phoned the Thompsons company, and they said that you can paint over their watersealer 3 days after application with oil base paint, and 45 days after with water based paint.  I might just do this when I replace my steps/balusters later this year.  I'd be interested to hear from others if they've done this and if they think it helped or not.
Hope this helps.

[JosephP]

Tulip poplar is in the least rot resistant category.  If it lasts for decades as barn siding, then something is amiss with the chart.  White pine is shown as more resistant on the list and has been used for exterior trim work for a really long time.  I'm very surprised it didn't survive very long in this application.  

John

A couple of key points before reaching these conclusions: 
1) The chart is for untreated wood. Because tulip poplar takes paint so well, it is able to persist longer than something like white pine that does not paint as well.  That is why I specified maintenance when I mentioned tulip poplar.
2) Note that the white pine included on that chart specifically states old growth. The white pine that has been used in decades past was old growth. That is going to be pretty difficult to find now.  It's going to be even more difficult to find clean boards of old growth trees.

[jteneyck]

A couple of key points before reaching these conclusions: 
1) The chart is for untreated wood. Because tulip poplar takes paint so well, it is able to persist longer than something like white pine that does not paint as well.  That is why I specified maintenance when I mentioned tulip poplar.
2) Note that the white pine included on that chart specifically states old growth. The white pine that has been used in decades past was old growth. That is going to be pretty difficult to find now.  It's going to be even more difficult to find clean boards of old growth trees.

I have some factory primed pine trim, never bothered to put a topcoat on it, on my solar kiln, fully exposed, and it's still fine after 5 years.  It's probably not even white pine.  I think the issue with the shutters was that water got down through the stile/rail joints, somehow, and rotted the wood because it never dried.  On my solar kiln, the wood can dry out after water exposure, so it doesn't rot.  

I made some frame and panel shed doors out of ash and MDO.  5 years old, and they look just fine.  They don't get much direct rain and the paint is perfect so none has intruded.  I used simple rabbetts for the panels, painted them along with the everything else, and then set the panels in place with adhesive caulk. No water, no rot.  So I get your point about tulip poplar, but I'm not comfortable using it where I know rot will happen if the paint fails.  

At this point, I'm strongly thinking about Utile/Sipo for the frames, and AZEK sheeting for the panels.  A great recommendation from someone on SMC was to use a rabbett (like I did with the shed doors) on the top of the rails that capture the panels, and use dados for the sides and top to hold it in place.  If I make the panel with standoffs, the water that gets onto that dado will dry.  I will use West Epoxy to glue up the painted frames, taped off where the joints are.  Another great recommendation is to cover the tops of the shutters with lead or zinc.  It will keep the water out and prevent moss from growing on the shutters, which did happen.  

I think I have a plan, but I'm always open to more input.  Thanks,

John 




John

[J-W-P]

Pressure treated poplar has been used for fence boards for a long time.
My neighbors pastures are fenced with it and they've been up a long time.  Painted, looks pretty good.

[jteneyck]

Pressure treated poplar has been used for fence boards for a long time.
My neighbors pastures are fenced with it and they've been up a long time.  Painted, looks pretty good.

I've never seen that.  

John

[Willyou]

I live in the south and my western red cedar shutters have held up well for over 20 years. However, they are of a more simple construction than frame and panel and they have been protected by a stain coating. They consist of three vertical planks with a space between and with cross bracing to hold them together. How ever you need to construct them, I think the wrc would be a better material than pine. Man-made materials would likely be better as well.

[jteneyck]

I live in the south and my western red cedar shutters have held up well for over 20 years. However, they are of a more simple construction than frame and panel and they have been protected by a stain coating. They consist of three vertical planks with a space between and with cross bracing to hold them together. How ever you need to construct them, I think the wrc would be a better material than pine. Man-made materials would likely be better as well.

The construction you have makes most any wood pretty durable because it can dry quickly.  Unfortunately, I don't have that option.  WRC is definitely more rot resistant than pine, but I can't find a source for clear 5/4 stock in my area.  I did find some Accoya, the acetylated stuff that lasts 50 years.  At about $17/bf, however, it's not an option.  Utile is about $6.  

John