Posts: 2,726
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
I've got the mini lathe. I am new to turning, and am wondering what the MINIMUM complement of tools is required to turn custom handles, and get good results. I've have and can use(barely) a roughing gouge, I assume that would be the first tool required. What else would be needed? How about EasyWood scrapers: might this do the trick (and would I need all three: rougher/finisher/detailer)? Thanks
Posts: 16,354
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2000
You'll probably get as many answers as there are turners, but this is what I use.
Any gouge to get it round and to rough shape. A skew for final shaping. A parting tool to cut it off from the waste. If you have the basic set from HF or Penn State that most of us start with you are good to go.
Posts: 6,423
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Truro,N.S. Canada
what Badwhiskey said,you can do a lot with those tools.Master them first doing spindle work.When you get to bowls,get a bowl gouge.
Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
Posts: 1,415
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2010
If given a rough piece of wood and told to make a handle for a chisel using only one tool, I'd pick the skew. This isn't for the feint of heart though - the skew can be your best friend or worst enemy, sometimes both at the same time. If you're not familiar/good/comfortable with turning tools, you could probably do everything you need to with a spindle gouge. Making details & burn lines would be rather difficult, but it could be done. (Heck, you could take a chisel and use that to make the starting groove for a burn wire.)
"I'm glad being trapped in the woods hunted by an insane militia made you ask the big life questions."
Check out my
Project Blog
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
At least one other recognizes the value of the basic turning set. They usually contain a couple of gouges, useful for coves, a skew or two for planing, a parting tool and a couple of scrapers of the non-insert type. Cheap, too.
Roughing gouge? All you need, if you learn it.
http://s108.photobucket.com/user/Michael...e.mp4.html See the curls? If you have a large one with good vertical sides, it's also your skew if you lower the rest a touch.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...-Rough.jpg It will leave a nice whittled surface.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...ughing.jpg It'll make a cove, but only a broad one its diameter or a touch less.
You could also get by with a chisel or, if you're good, a skew as your only. Coves out of reach, save the broadest, but beads and grooves easy. Once again, get shavings.
http://s35.photobucket.com/user/GoodOnes...h.mp4.htmlI'd get the set. Still have my originals after thirty plus years, but they are getting perilously short. You can see them on the rack behind in the last video. The two scrapers were long ago modified to a long-bevel chisel and a beading tool.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 771
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Cincinnati
How are you planning to make a hole for the tool? I use this one.
HF drill chuck
Posts: 2,726
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
A video is worth a million words. Great input! Here is pic. I "borrowed" from Derek Cohen's website (thanks Derek) where he shows a Blue Spruce handle and a longer paring version he designed. This is the sort of handle I'm shooting for. I hope to post a reasonable facsimile of this by the end of the month. Stay tuned. Thanks again.
Posts: 866
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2009
I would go with a 1" skew and 1/2" spindle gouge.
At the size shown you can part off with the skew or you can make your own parting tool.
The cove near the ferrule could be done with a skew by some but not by me; looks pretty steep in the picture.
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Philip1231 said:
Here is pic. I "borrowed" from Derek Cohen's website (thanks Derek) where he shows a Blue Spruce handle and a longer paring version he designed. This is the sort of handle I'm shooting for. I hope to post a reasonable facsimile of this by the end of the month. Stay tuned. Thanks again.
Had to look it up. "Blue spruce" wood would never make a good handle, so it had to be a brand name. Puzzling, why socket paring chisels? Socket chisels are made for whacking on the end, paring is a hand push and twist. If you're planning on using a mallet, make the ends more round than those socket types.
Ennyway, the patterns shown are all possible with the rougher or rougher/parting alone. Taper is something you sneak up on by using the rougher as a scraper lying on its side. If you don't have a parting tool, use a saw with the lathe off.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 38,624
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Baker City Or-A-Gun
Philip1231 said:
Speaking the obvious...
Those are two different types of chisels. The dark handle is a tang chisel, and the two upper chisels are socket chisels. Two different critters, really.