What is the most difficult tool to sharpen....

[Timberwolf]

For me {and I think most folks} it's the "V" tool!!!!! I think it was designed by the Devil himself and he's still laughing about it!!!!!!

I have had this one for years {one of several} and just never got around to sharpening it..It was in terrible shape...Then, the "light bulb" went on in my head..and I thought..why not try shaping it on my slow-speed belt grinder, and Bingo....it worked!!! I started out with an 80 grit belt for restoring the shape, then went to a very well worn 180grit, which polished it...and I finished it up using appropriate slip-stones....fine India to hard Arkansas...then on the leather...for the sharpness test, I took a swipe at a piece of Jelutong {cross grain} and it left a shiny surface!! {I learned long ago to leave well enough alone} I touched up some gouges while I was at it..

The slow-speed belt grinder is one of the best, most useful tools I have ever made!!!

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[Steve Friedman]

Since I don't have a V-tool, I think it's the dog leg gouges.



Actually, I have a problem with any blade that doesn't fit into a honing jig. But, following Curtis Buchanan's technique and getting a Bear Tex wheel has saved me on these. I use a CBN wheel (if needed) to shape and fix chips, then to the Bear Tex, before finishing with a leather or felt wheel (thanks Jack). I go back and forth between the leather and felt because I can't decide which I like better. I may switch to a taper mandrel like you showed in the other post to make them easier to swap out. I now use this method for every curved blade I own.

Steve

[RJT123]

Well, for me, it's anything that isn't sharp. I need to become much more proficient.

[Phil S.]

A V tool is tough and a curved one makes it that much tougher. Seems like you have posted pictures of your slow-speed belt grinder in the past. If not, I'd like to hear more about it or get a steer to where I can see your past posts on it.

Phil

[Timberwolf]

Gouges {outside bevel} are a piece o cake with the slow-speed grinder, Steve....much better IMO than any wheel grinder..The inside can be polished {to a degree} using a Dremel with a small Cratex wheel ...you can also mount them on a tapered mandrel...

I'm going to make a small, 1/4" thick hard leather wheel for the mandrel that will be sandwiched between two pieces of aluminum to stiffen it..It will only be about 1 3/4" diameter and will have a hardened edge {using thin Crazy glue} in a "V" shape..This will allow for getting inside the "V" and putting a nice polish on it. A thicker wheel could be made in the same fashion but have a "rounded" edge to use on small gouges like your dog-legs...I don't think they would need to be hardened..

So much to do...so little time...

[Timberwolf]

Phil, heres a pic of the one I refer to as MKI...I have since designed one that is much simpler and Cletus {Mark} built the first operational one using a photo of the "untried" prototype I made. I want to make it clear that these machines can be made out of any hardwood...Aluminum is not essential.....It helps to have a lathe, but as Cletus discovered, the motor itself can be used for the lathe to make the drive wheel. Notice that the belt can be removed and replaced in seconds...



Here's a shot of my much simpler MKII prototype...I sent it to Arlin for him to complete....you can see how simple it is to build...Cletus just bought his aluminum from Home Depot..I got mine at Habitat.The three ball bearings cost about a buck each on ebay and I turned the shaft they are mounted on of out of brass {which can be machined on a wood lathe}..It could also be aluminum..also easily machined with woodworking tools. {the shaft could even be made out of a really hard wood}..and the drive wheel on the motor could be turned true right on the motor shaft...I think Cletus glued his to the motor shaft with epoxy. No drilling and tapping required.

[Aram]

For me, shoulder plane blade. I hone them freehand on water stones. A little off square or the smallest amount of camber and it's back to square one.

[Timberwolf]

If you have a drill press, you have "sort of" a milling machine...A blade held at the correct angle in an X-Y vise could be ground by moving the blade under the spinning cup wheel held in the drill chuck...it could be a very accurate way to sharpen one, followed up by a few swipes on a stone and then a leather or felt wheel.

[CLETUS]

Me and my lathe!

[Axehandle]

You could use one of those mini belt grinders....or you could make use of your shop made 2x72 belt grinder. I can get it down to about 600 sfpm or up to 2800 using step pulleys. Would be nice to have VS.



It's an awesome grinder but a craptastic pic.