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I have pre-finished a project with Minwax Wipe-On Poly and want to apply a paste wax. In the past I used a "white scrub" pad to apply the wax and nock of the dust nibs off at the same time...is that dumb, ok, or is there a better way?
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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I normally use the grey pads or 0000 steel wool to apply wax. The white pads are fine. I use them as an applicator for the final coats of wipe on poly or oil finishes.
Some other fudge will come around and tell us how bad wax is for furniture, but I still use it and have not noticed the ill effects that have been mentioned here.
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I like the 7448 Scotch-Brite for rubout and applying wax. I still use it for small areas and objects. Now I use
Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher with with
griot's garage polish . When I use wax (rarely) I buff it out with a pad.
I don't bother unless the customer asks for it as it only improves the feel of the wood but diminishes the grain while feeling good. It slightly protects shellac from hot liquids and alcohol but does nothing to protect the wood or a modern finish.
If you like the feel by all means go for it; but it is unnecessary.
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Quodcumque potest manus tua facere instaner opere Ecclesiastes
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I don't like applying wax at all. It makes refinishing or adding a new coat much more difficult.
And never use a wax that contains silicone or you can never refinish.
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For years I have used non-woven, white abrasive pads to apply paste wax to finished surfaces.
Be aware that doing this will remove some of the high gloss you get from gloss varnish or poly varnish.
It works best if the finish is fully dry and cured. 10 days is minimal.
Howie.........
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I like to use a soft cotton rag to apply the wax. Put a large dollop into the middle of the rag then pull up the corners and twist tight. Looks sort of like a shellac "rubber". Then hold in your hand so that your palm does the work of pressing down and warming the wax. It comes out in a nice flowing coat and you can work it into the wood with circular motions. Then when the solvents have flashed off, you can come back with a clean rag (or your white non-woven) and work with the grain.
Small inside corners I use an old tooth brush.
Wax cleans wax so keeping the finish looking good isn't much trouble at all. (Yes, I know it is the solvents in the newly applied stuff that is doing the work, but sounds better the other way.)
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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Thank you gentlemen. I love this place....so much knowledge and experience freely shared!!!!!!
Thank you!
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood