installing grab bars in a fiberglass shower

[bsheffer]

I need to install a grab bar in a fiberglass shower install for an elderly parent. . The fiberglass seems to be pretty thick and the question is if I can just attach it to the fiberglass or I need to somehow find structure behind the enclosure to get into to secure it...

[MKepke]

bsheffer said:

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I need to install a grab bar in a fiberglass shower install for an elderly parent. . The fiberglass seems to be pretty thick and the question is if I can just attach it to the fiberglass or I need to somehow find structure behind the enclosure to get into to secure it...

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Best to tie into the framing, but if that is impractical, look for a purpose-built grab-bar retrofit kit.

I know for example, that Moen makes one rated for 300# in many retrofit situations, including in a standard 1/8" tub surround.

-Mark

[Robert Adams]

I did this recently to lomls mom's condo. I found a grab bar long enough to hit two studs in the wall. I was able to get two screws into studs. I had to use 5" screws because the gap between the fiber and the stud. Don't try to get it tight to the stud as you will warp the fiberglass badly. Just get it as tight as you can without flexing the wall too much.
You can get it to work well. I got it tight enough that I could barely get it to move so lomls mom is nothing on it.

The big issue is that few framers properly frame around the shower. They leave out allot of the studs that are required to be there for support. Personally the best approach when framing is to follow the shower stall instructuons but bump it out 3/4 on all 3 sides. Then put up 3/4 plywood over the studs before putting the stall in. Then you can drive a screw anywhere.

[jteneyck]

Yes, find a long enough bar that you can attach it to two studs. I was lucky that there were studs where I needed them when I installed two bars in my parents' shower. If the studs aren't where you need them, then I would cut open the wall on the other side and install blocking where needed. As long as you can get to that wall it's not hard. If it's an outside wall, oh boy, remove the tub surround? Ugh.

John

[Splinter Puller]

If its exterior and If the house is newer its not that hard to remove a bit of lap siding and cut a hole in the sheathing. Pry the lap above up. saw the nails on the lap you want to remove, cut a hole in the sheathing. install blocking. patch the sheathing then face nail the siding back in right below the lap above then caulk & paint the nails. I keep a long 12" 1/8" drill bit for punching through walls like this to locate where the work needs to be.

[Mking143]

I used Solid Mount for the grab bars in my son's shower. They are very sturdy and have held up well.

[Patsfan]

I used wingits (available at home depot among others) to install grab bars in my dad's tiled shower.

Real easy and rated for 300#

[Lynden]

+1 for WingIts wall anchors. Here's a link which shows the different anchors made by WingIts. Click on each anchor to see the load rating, installation instructions and a video.

http://www.wingits.com/products.php?id=2

[bsheffer]

I guess the trick is to find the studs. I can use a stud finder to find the studs above the enclosure and I guess just assume the studs continue vertically to the floor but if "framing around shower stalls is not conventional", I am not sure that is good logic. I cannot afford to drill a hole and not find a stud.

[Anak]

If you drill a hole and you miss the stud you can still be okay if you are close to one. The flange on the grab bar can cover up a close mistake.

If you miss use a piece of wire with a 90 degree bend in it to try to "feel" for a stud around the hole you drilled. Actually, two 90 degree bends are best. Shape the wire kind of like a "U". One bend goes inside the wall, the other bend is outside the wall so you can see where you are pointing when you hit a stud. Hit it from both directions and you can pretty much figure out the edge of the stud. From there decide if you are going to use an anchor in the "mistake" hole, or if you are just going to hide it under the flange after sealing it with caulking.