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We have an electric cooktop that we intend to replace with a gas cooktop.
I have a plan for the gas run: Easy access all along the way, capacity on the gas manifold to source the supply for the cooktop, and a licensed plumber to do the job.
The electric cooktop is currently powered with a dedicated 40A 220V circuit. The gas cooktops under consideration all require 110V service vice 220. Obviously, I can pull the 40A breaker and replace it with a 110V 15A breaker. However, what I'm not certain about is whether or not I need to replace the existing cable run with 14/2 cable. The wire run for the current cooktop is metal-clad sheathed wire. I'm fairly certain it's at least 10GA wire.
Can I reuse the existing wire run, or do I need to pull it and replace it with 14/2 wire for a 15A circuit?
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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You can use what's there, as long as the conductors will fit the breaker (size should be on the label), and the receptacle (use a 15A simplex or duplex), and the breaker and receptacle has to be compatible with the branch circuit conductor (aluminium?). But there's no reason the wiring has to be replaced with 14 gauge copper.
Oh, and you can put other loads on that circuit if you want to. You can even put some of the small appliance branch circuit receptacles on it if you make it 20A, which can be useful if you're often tripping one of them and want to break it up. Oven and cooktop controls and igniters are the only things you can scab onto those SABC's (and recessed electric clock receptacles, though nobody uses them any more).
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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I believe you can pigtail each end if the wires don't fit the breaker and/or receptacle as well.
Obviously, you are moving the white (if its white) from the existing breaker to the neutral buss in the panel. I'm guessing its 3 wire, not 4 wire.
If its 4 wire, you neutral is already landed correctly an you convert to two 20 amp 110V circuits and you can run all the wife's crock pots you want.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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TDKPE said what I would have. Worst case if you have to you might be able to run a wire from a close by receptacle to power it. It uses almost no power at all.
As to pigtailing that's a no no. Especially on the breaker end wire nuts have no place in the panel. There are only a few exceptions to that rule.
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TDKPE said:
You can use what's there, as long as the conductors will fit the breaker (size should be on the label), and the receptacle (use a 15A simplex or duplex), and the breaker and receptacle has to be compatible with the branch circuit conductor (aluminium?). But there's no reason the wiring has to be replaced with 14 gauge copper.
Oh, and you can put other loads on that circuit if you want to. You can even put some of the small appliance branch circuit receptacles on it if you make it 20A, which can be useful if you're often tripping one of them and want to break it up. Oven and cooktop controls and igniters are the only things you can scab onto those SABC's (and recessed electric clock receptacles, though nobody uses them any more).
Hmmmm...that gives me an option to think about. I don't actually need to conserve slots in the power panels; if the wire gauge is such that I can't easily reuse it, then perhaps I can extend one of the SABC circuits in the kitchen. Most circuits in the house are 20A, including the small appliance outlets in the kitchen. We have never tripped a circuit breaker since moving in.
I'm probably one of the few who "suffer" from an embarrassment of riches when it come to electrical power in our house. We moved in two years ago. House was built in 2004; custom job and original owner was en electrical engineer who was also a ham radio guy. Consequently, we have 400 amp service with including two 220V circuits into the former ham radio room. The big benefit to me is that the shop outbuilding has an 80 amp subpanel; certainly large enough for how I operate out there.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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Nice. Course I think every house should have a 320 amp service. That way you have the capacity for a 200 amp panel in the house and the shop. Can never have too much.
