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Looks nice. I have a round headed mallet I made where I soaked the head in BLO overnight. As Warren says, it takes forever to cure, but it added a lot of weight to the mallet. If you use a penetrating oil like BLO, do the ends. If it's a surface varnish, then leave the striking surface natural. A penetrating oil when cured will add some stiffness to the striking surface. On another mallet I have like yours, I took a scrap piece of leather and glued it to one of the surfaces. Works great for coaxing tight fits together without marring the surface.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Thanks for the leather to the face suggestion. I will try that on my next mallet.
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Mike Brady said:
MM, the handle has to fit through the mortise in the head, so it can't have a bulge in the handle.
Doesn't have to come out again, does it? I'd consider glue and contour.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Thanks for the great suggestions, all!
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eg54string said:
Thanks for the leather to the face suggestion. I will try that on my next mallet.
Redneck leather (aka Duck Tape) also makes a great striking surface. I have had my carving mallet sheathed in in for years. The tape reduces bounce.
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Good suggestion. Thanks. One thing you will never hear a redneck say: "Duct tape won't fix it."
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Hmmmmmm another outlet for the ole Duck Tape
. Great invention.
Steve
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My mallets are finished with Danish oil. Let the head soak in it if you want to add extra weight.
Steve S.
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Nice mallet. I made a largish one using some beech. It is my holdfast mallet. I have not put a finish on it yet and if I ever feel the need, a simple coat of BLO maybe thinned a bit with mineral spirits will do the trick. No need for anything fancy.
