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How does one get a chipbreaker .01" from the tip of the blade? What does that look like? It's pretty darn close.
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.01 is about 2 pieces of paper. Doable, I think.
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A five year old post that just pops up out of nowhere: I do wonder?
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(06-11-2021, 04:40 PM)Philip1231 Wrote: A five year old post that just pops up out of nowhere: I do wonder?
Agree that it is odd. The IP addresses of the 2 new members look to be from Ottawa and Austin. Neither IP address seems to have any reports of misbehavior.
Giving the benefit of the doubt for now.
If either of those new articles get edited to add an url, please hit the Report button for the edited post.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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Well, this is the first time I have read this post. I wish all the pictures were working.
Seems like I need to grind my chip breakers to 50 degrees?
...Naval Aviators, that had balz made of brass and the size of bowling balls, getting shot off the deck at night, in heavy seas, hoping that when they leave the deck that the ship is pointed towards the sky and not the water.
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(06-12-2021, 01:34 AM)Martin S. Wrote: Well, this is the first time I have read this post. I wish all the pictures were working.
Seems like I need to grind my chip breakers to 50 degrees?
The traditional method uses a rounded bevel on the cap iron. This is what Peter Nicholson explained in 1812. I have used a rounded bevel since 1977. My bevel is around around 80 degrees where it hits the plane iron, but there is no flat wall which would cause jamb ups with thicker shavings. The bevel works best if it is well polished.
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I usually grind the bevel where it meets the iron into a knife edge....thinner the better...I get a bit of compression right where the two meet....The curved "hump" is usually highly polished, no rough spots to snag a shaving on.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
So, Before I Run Out and Invest in an Overstuffed Smoother...
