Storing Wood Outdoors?

[PedroOhare]

I currently have too much wood in my garage/workshop to get any machinery in there. I have recently covered and screened in my deck, and there is an area perfect for storing wood under it if it won't get ruined. It will still be open to the elements but have a roof and then a standard 1x6 decking above it. This is in WI so we have everything from extremely high humidity and hot weather to -20* and dry weather. I would build 'racks' to keep airflow around the wood and probably cover w a tarp also.

Thanks

Pedro

[MichaelMouse]

Keeping it up and away from the ground moisture is the key. Lay down a tarp or overlapping viqueen, runner up 4-6, then stack.  Regular pallets over the tarp work for me, but you need to keep the initial surface planar, so as not to allow sag and warp.

[Bibliophile 13]

Just don't forget that a tarp can keep moisture IN just as well as it keeps moisture out. And trapping moisture is a sure way to accelerate the rotting process. So while it's important to keep the lumber stack protected from the elements, it's equally important to let air circulate freely around it. I think as long as the stack is off the ground and there's a roof overhead, it's about as much as you can do.

[Steve N]

I currently have too much wood in my garage/workshop to get any machinery in there. I have recently covered and screened in my deck, and there is an area perfect for storing wood under it if it won't get ruined. It will still be open to the elements but have a roof and then a standard 1x6 decking above it. This is in WI so we have everything from extremely high humidity and hot weather to -20* and dry weather. I would build 'racks' to keep airflow around the wood and probably cover w a tarp also.

Thanks

Pedro

Sand to soften the ground, to allow for water flow through, and take out any irregularities. screed it off like you would if laying pavers. A tarp as suggested makes a good ground barrier for the bottom. Next I stack on cinder blocks for elevation off the ground. Moisture can get through a trap, and alone on the ground they can become torn when weight is stacked on them. I try to level the blocks as well as possible, then I lay treated beams, never wider than 3' between them across to stack you lumber on. Laying it out flat will give you flat, straight stock, so attention to detail now will give you good usable wood. Sticker the stock at each layer every 12 to 14" apart with stickers of consistent thickness. If the floor above will not allow rain to drip through, you are done, otherwise put either plastic, or sheet roofing material over the top. You want to keep the sides open for good airflow. It doesn't work out over the entire country, but usually 1 year per 1" of thickness is the ratio for air drying, if you mean to have it kiln dried, stickered outside in my area SW Ohio over a Summer is plenty of initial drying before taking to a kiln. If it is green wood sealing the ends before stacking is worth the time and money involved.

Once you have built the base it will be there unless you greatly disturb it, so subsequent loads of wood will be much easier, less time consuming, and a lot less cash outlay.

I have never stacked wood under something as you are thinking of doing. My only reservation in a humid climate is if there is a lot of moisture under the building I would prefer the stack be in the open air. You are looking to remove it from moisture, so the moisture in the wood leaves at a controlled rate. If it were going back and forth that isn't controlled, plus being under, especially if the structure had a "wall" on one of it's sides, it could actually trap the moisture in, and decrease air flow, you want moisture to leave, and airflow to help with the drying.

Good luck, no matter how you do it. It will make working that wood all the more special to you.