Interior Divided Light Doors Build Along - Part 10

[jteneyck]

Here's a link to Part 9.        

OK, I'm back from a week of unexpectedly great skiing for this early in the season and working on the doors again.  When last I left you all I had glued up one of the arched doors.  So to begin I glued up the other one, only this time I used the process Joe described to me to do it vertically.



I have to say, this was much easier than doing it flat.  Easier to assemble, and you can easily check both sides to make sure the joints are uniformly tight, and adjust the clamps if they aren't.  This is definitely the better way. 

With both doors glued up it was time to cut off the tops to the correct final profile.  When I made the arch jamb it was a perfect match to my mold the next day.  However, even though I left it clamped in the mold, when I checked it a few days later it had sprung about an inch, which means I have a problem because I need to have it follow the profile I designed in order to fit the doorway arch w/o interference.  That meant I had to pull the arch into the shape I designed it to be and cut off the doors to that profile, too.  Thinking about it I realized I can do both things by making a full size template of the arch shape, which I did with a router trammel set to 56-3/4".



With the template made, I beveled the edge of the swinging door and then clamped the doors together with a 3/32" spacer between them.  I put the template on top and traced a line where they needed to be cut, then removed the template and rough cut the doors with a jig saw.  I clamped the template back in place and trimmed the doors to their final shape, first using a top bearing router bit, then flipped the doors over and finished trimming them with a bottom bearing bit.  I clamped the stile cut offs to the outer edges to eliminate blowout. 





To deal with the exposed LVL I cut a dado using a rabbeting bit.  The shallowest rabbet my Rockler set can cut is 5/16", but I needed 1/8", so I created a special bearing from a piece of 1/4" Masonite that I super glued to the 1/2" diameter bearing.  It worked great and I cut the 1/8" deep rabbet w/o incident. 



I cleaned up the ends by hand with a chisel, and then made 1/8" thick trim strips to fit and glued them in. 



After the glue had dried I flushed the trim strips with my compass plane and then sandpaper.



Here are the doors with just the muntin profiles to be added, and the bottoms to be trimmed off.  





Thanks for following along.

John


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[fredhargis]

That is really going to be a fantastic set of doors.

[stav]

I agree with Fred.  That is a great looking set of doors. Do you have an idea of how much they will weigh?

[JGrout]

full of glass about 120-150 lbs 

maybe a bit more with all the LVL cores

[jteneyck]

I think I calculated about 75 lbs each.  I just went and weighed one and it was a little shy of 54 lbs.  The glass will add another 17 or 18 lbs, then there are the glass stops, so 75 lbs each is in the right range.  In any case, they are heavy.  But they sure do look good and I'm really enjoying the build process.  Of course, it would have been a lot less enjoyable had I not asked Joe for guidance.  

John

[Duane N]

Very nice work and I hope someday to be able to build something like this at this quality. I'm learning I need to slow down...there's no rush to finish anything.

[atgcpaul]

Really nice doors, John.  Thanks for sharing the process.

Will the homeowner help you mount them?

[jteneyck]

Really nice doors, John.  Thanks for sharing the process.

Will the homeowner help you mount them?

No, not a chance.  I will install the jamb and then a friend and I will carry in the doors and hang them.  I will pre-hang the doors in my shop, so once I take it to the jobsite if I get the jamb installed correctly it should be just a mater of hanging them.  I hope.  

John