Does anyone soak their Bowls or other turned items?

[Wildwood]

Bob Stockdale did soak his bowls in mineral oil until wood could not absorb and more, then allow excess to drip off before wiping. He sold his bowl in San Fran area until started turning exotic woods and got bought by collectors & art galleries.

If use mineral oil use the laxative stuff and not machine mineral oil or baby oil!

[EightFingers]

I use Cedarcide on Norfolk Pine during the drying process.

Used to soak finishied Pine pieces in oil to get the translucent look, but don’t do that now because it takes so long for the finish to cure.

Ron Kent and Kelly Dunn are a couple locals who still do it.

[MichaelMouse]

Both mineral & walnut oil will provide you a food safe finish but will need reapplication after use!

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/...e-finishes

Not necessarily.  Walnut oil will provide a cured finish after a sufficient time.  Mineral oil will not cure.  My pizza board has a walnut oil soak and cure washed probably 100-150 times over the past ten years.  My salad and popcorn bowls are walnut oiled as well.

[Wildwood]

Yes, Walnut oil does cure because it is a drying oil mineral oil is not. Advantage to using these oil other than food safe easily repairable as required. Proper cleaning, drying, and handling methods, might delay reapplicaton but eventually should be done.

Walnut oil for turners comes from the salad oil industry although would not run down to the grocery store to buy some. Problems with grocery store oil discussed on various message board before. Dr.'s or Mahoney's walnut oil will serve you well. You can also check out art supply or health food stores for walnut oils.

With the exception of BLO & walnut oil most of your drying oils need solvent/thinner to penetrate more & speed up drying. No drying oil will penetrate deeply by themselves. Walnut oil coming from salad oil industry too thin to add solvent/thinner. Pure Tung oil by itself is better than walnut oil for protection but without thinner takes too long to dry for most people. JMHO, would never use pure linseed oil on any turning!

[MichaelMouse]

Yes, Walnut oil does cure because it is a drying oil mineral oil is not. Advantage to using these oil other than food safe easily repairable as required.  Proper cleaning, drying, and handling methods, might delay reapplicaton but eventually should be done.

Walnut oil for turners comes from the salad oil industry although would not run down to the grocery store to buy some.  Problems with grocery store oil discussed on various message board before.  Dr.'s or Mahoney's walnut oil will serve you well.  You can also check out art supply or health food stores for walnut oils.

With the exception of BLO & walnut oil most of your drying oils need solvent/thinner to penetrate more & speed up drying.  No drying oil will penetrate deeply by themselves.  Walnut oil coming from salad oil industry too thin to add solvent/thinner. Pure  Tung oil by itself is better than walnut oil for protection but without thinner takes too long to dry for most people.  JMHO, would never use pure linseed oil on any turning!

Well, FWIW, warming the oil will lower the viscosity and help it penetrate.  Warmth will also help the process of chemical curing (not drying).  Be careful what you buy, as some have additives to retard spoiling.  Read the label.

[Wildwood]

Just a matter who you believe!

This is a no win discussion on walnut oil or any other drying oil. Drying oils have an iodine value ranging from 130- 190, semi drying oils 100-130, non-oils below 100. Drying oils harden to tough solid film after exposure to air; or process of polymerization or dry! Don't know whether matters if oil was cold or hot pressed makes a difference once consider additives that may be added to slow down oil from going rancid.
All wood coating have dry to touch, recoat, use, and curing times. Where dry to the touch and recoat, and use times maybe provided under ideal conditions curing times are never provided.

http://woodworkersresource.com/content/s...plying_it/
http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/f...alnut-oil/
http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/Tec...px?p=59385
https://woodbarter.com/threads/walnut-oi...ish.17528/

[MichaelMouse]

All wood coating have dry to touch, recoat, use, and curing times.  Where  dry to the touch and recoat, and use times maybe provided under ideal conditions curing times are never provided.

I like this rule of thumb to determine when the cure has progressed to a finish.  Put your thumb flat on the piece for about ten seconds.  If the oil shows a print where the heat from the thumb warmed it, it's not cured.