The Last Moxon Dovetail Vise

[Derek Cohen]

...  One question....are the chops on your latest just a bit thinner? 

Don

Hi Don

The chop and rear section are each around 30mm thick. Much the same as my earlier Moxon. 

Jarrah is an interlocked wood, and stiff and strong. There is no need to go thicker (and it is heavy enough!).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I'm curious about your bushing set-up. I assume the bushings are standard ones you can buy at any industrial supply house. What about the diamond-shaped backing that appears to be inlayed onto the chop? Is that something you fabricated? Is it attached to the bushing, or does the barrel of the bushing simply pass through a hole in it?  

I have used steel bushings for exactly the same purpose (to keep the front chop from wracking unnecessarily), but I always thought a steel (or bronze in your example) backing for the bushing would be helpful. I'd like to know the details of your set-up. It  looks to be exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks.

Hank

Hi Hank

The reason I used bronze bushings was to minimise wear. Running wood on wood, as with wooden screws and drilled wooden chop (my earlier Moxon) was pretty safe. But the steel screws are expected to damage the chop. 

The bronze bushing came from an on-line supplier. I cannot recall whom. They are plentiful. I did need to drill it out a little since there was not enough play.

The diamonds are 3mm brass plate I cut out, shaped, drilled, and morticed into the chop. The bushings sit on top of the brass, as you surmised. The brass has no function other than to look nice


Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Is the spacer held in the up position by that single thumb screw?  If so, how is then constrained to be level with the chop and I-bean?

Hi Curt

There is a cunningly hidden set of brass hinges underneath the spacer. This allows the spacer to tilt away, or up, at the same height (10mm) above the chop. 

There is also a set of rare earth magnets at the centre to hold the spacer when vertical. I thought that this would be enough, but it was still possible to tip it over. Rather than add more magnets, I decided to  use a thumb screw. That makes a solid connection.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[AHill]

I always learn something from you, Derek. Even your tools are well thought-out, with features that solve a problem or make the task easier beyond what the basic tool provides. And, of course, it's visually attractive.

Thanks for sharing it with us!

[tablesawtom]

Very nicely done.  l love the color and look of the Jarrah.

I do not do enough dovetail work to even think of half of the modifications you made to your new vise. But it is easy to see the amount of cutting dovetail experience that went into the build. And I also  know that if things, like your vise looke nice, one feels better about what he or she is doing and will have far better results because of it. And your's looks very nice. I will add the with all of your sharing about dovetails I have become a lot more interested in them than I have been in the past. And right a way angled dovetails on a serving tray come to mind.

I was really impressed with your way to incorporated the clamps into the build so that the pin board can't move when marking the tail board. The worst thing that can happen to have a part is to have it move when transfering. I am now going to rethink what I was planning on doing as far as board alignment goes.

Thanks for sharing and I have been waiting to see what you came up with, as far as the new vise goes.

Tom
.

[RonB1957]

Very nicely done.  l love the color and look of the Jarrah.

I do not do enough dovetail work to even think of half of the modifications you made to your new vise. But it is easy to see the amount of cutting dovetail experience that went into the build. And I also  know that if things, like your vise looke nice, one feels better about what he or she is doing and will have far better results because of it. And your's looks very nice. I will add the with all of your sharing about dovetails I have become a lot more interested in them than I have been in the past. And right a way angled dovetails on a serving tray come to mind.

I was really impressed with your way to incorporated the clamps into the build so that the pin board can't move when marking the tail board. The worst thing that can happen to have a part is to have it move when transfering. I am now going to rethink what I was planning on doing as far as board alignment goes.

Thanks for sharing and I have been waiting to see what you came up with, as far as the new vise goes.

Tom
.

Nice vise. Reminds me of this one. https://mcglynnonmaking.com/2015/03/22/m...stly-done/

[Derek Cohen]

That's nice! Thanks Ron.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Carheir]

where can I get some of that rubberized cork?

[bandit571]

Hobby Lobby?

[Derek Cohen]

where can I get some of that rubberized cork?

“Rubberised cork” is used for gaskets. I would.either use Google for a local distributor, or find it on eBay (which is where I got mine). It is not generally cheap stuff, but I guess that depends on where it is made. 

It makes an excellent non-slip, which is the reason for using it on chops as well as the rests. More recently I added a bench stop ....





... and lined the face with “Crubber” (to use BenchCrafted’s term ... incidentally, another source to purchas from, but likely to be more expensive) ...



This stop is working fantastically. Best yet!

Regards from Perth

Derek