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Im trying to fix a fuel leak before I fix the electrical problem. It was leaking at the fuel line fitting into the carb. It's a 2 piece plastic/brass fitting. The brass piece gets pressed into the carb. After talking to a small engine guy on how to remove the old fitting, I followed his advice and got it out and pressed in the new one, now the stupid thing won't start. @#$@! I'm going to pull the carb and see if I mucked up any of the jets. I may also pull the spark plug and see if it is fouled with fuel.
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(06-24-2020, 11:21 PM)daddo Wrote: I remember those metal flanges you pushed with your finger against the plug to shut it down- I got hit once as a kid and used a wood stick after that.
I got hit many times from my Dad's mower. Rotary, but belt-driven from a B&S 5S horizontal shaft engine with open cup rope start, putting out a massive 1.6 hp.
![Laugh Laugh](https://forums.woodnet.net/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif)
And yes, it had that metal tab for shorting out the hot spark wire. Don't miss.
Sticking it too far under the bushes would 'ground' the spark wire when the plug tip hit a branch and kill the engine. Or get branches wrapped up in the open belt drive system.
Earned a lot of money with that old machine.
Good times.
Looked just like this one, only not as clean and shiny.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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The existing switch was faulty. It's bent a little so it doesn't work all the time. Rather than strap a pair of pliers to the mower for when I want to close the switch, I wired in a kill switch. I went through the blade drive mechanism, tightened a few things, adjusted the blade engagement and sharpened the blades. the last thing is the transmission. the mower doesn't seem to want to climb hllls without help. I'm wondering about a loose drive belt from the engine to the gearbox but will worry about that this week.
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I've found on my SP bagger the drive belt needs to be real snug.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(06-28-2020, 02:57 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: I've found on my SP bagger the drive belt needs to be real snug.
I dug up the service manual and the owner's manual. I was thinking drive belt, but that was an assumption. After seeing the manual I'll start there. The belts that go from the transmission to the wheel axle seem to be nice and snug. The other clue is if the mower is in gear, I can stop it by pulling backwards. When I do that, the transmission pulley stops. So I'm thinking it's the belt from the engine to the transmission.