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I would not be too worried about the Proposition 65 warning https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1986_Calif...osition_65 As to missing pieces, it is hard to see from the photo, but assuming you have a working motor, wheels, and guides and a table, you don't need much more. For the upper guides, it looks like you have the thrust bearing, but not the side guides, part 11 A in the manual, page 10 https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manual.../60564.pdf Not sure if that part includes the brackets, the bolts and the guides or just the bracket. It looks like you are missing the upper blade guard.
From the manual and your photo, it looks like the lower thrust bearing and guides are complete. You will need a fence and rails to mount a fence, it does not look like it came with one originally, though there are DIY plans on the internet. If you just wanted to cut curves, you wouldn't need a fence, but I use the fence all the time. I don't see the miter gauge, but I hardly ever use mine.
As long as the wheels, with a good blade, spin smoothly, and you don't change blades often ( it will be a pain to readjust the guides ) it should do fairly well. If there is a lot of vibration, I suggest looking for post by Robert Vaughn. I can't find it now, but he has posted on how to track down vibration issues, using a dial indicator, and shows how to balance the wheels. You may also want to read this http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/FAQ/110124076.pdf Don't forget that assuming the wheels are mostly balanced and in the right plane, the biggest impact on the quality of the cut will be the blade. If you have perfectly set up machine, and the blade is dull, or has a crooked weld, the results will be poor.
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(12-29-2021, 08:22 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: I would not be too worried about the Proposition 65 warning https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1986_Calif...osition_65 As to missing pieces, it is hard to see from the photo, but assuming you have a working motor, wheels, and guides and a table, you don't need much more. For the upper guides, it looks like you have the thrust bearing, but not the side guides, part 11 A in the manual, page 10 https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manual.../60564.pdf Not sure if that part includes the brackets, the bolts and the guides or just the bracket. It looks like you are missing the upper blade guard.
From the manual and your photo, it looks like the lower thrust bearing and guides are complete. You will need a fence and rails to mount a fence, it does not look like it came with one originally, though there are DIY plans on the internet. If you just wanted to cut curves, you wouldn't need a fence, but I use the fence all the time. I don't see the miter gauge, but I hardly ever use mine.
As long as the wheels, with a good blade, spin smoothly, and you don't change blades often ( it will be a pain to readjust the guides ) it should do fairly well. If there is a lot of vibration, I suggest looking for post by Robert Vaughn. I can't find it now, but he has posted on how to track down vibration issues, using a dial indicator, and shows how to balance the wheels. You may also want to read this http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/FAQ/110124076.pdf Don't forget that assuming the wheels are mostly balanced and in the right plane, the biggest impact on the quality of the cut will be the blade. If you have perfectly set up machine, and the blade is dull, or has a crooked weld, the results will be poor.
Yesterday, after I brought the bandsaaw home I sent pics to Harbor Freight customer service, and told them it looks like I need a blade guard, blade guides, and three knobs. So I'm waiting for a response.
The knobs (for the upper and lower wheel covers) are not in the parts list, but I'm sure I can find those (as well as a blade) elsewhere.
It's the blade guard(Item# 17128) I need.(I'll have to find the blade guard to the bandsaw I already had and see if it fits).
The blade guides seem to be the last piece to the puzzle. The parts manual lists three different blade guides. (Item# 15741, 15744, & 17144). So that's confusing.
Thanks for the link.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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Darren, if you can't find the blade guards, they will be easy to fabricate. It is typically thin sheet metal with a fold or two so that it covers the front of the blade above the guides, and with holes drilled to allow it to be attached to the post. The two phillips head screws on the post hold it in place. The illustration in the manual is not very clear, here are some photos of a similar saw. The second and third photos show the two guards. https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/197690 It looks like the upper blade guard goes from the lower part of the upper frame up to the middle of the wheel, and the lower guard slides just inside that, though not sure. BTW, I know see the knobs that are missing, and they should not be that hard to find. Also, you definitely don't need to upgrade to roller bearings, the original guides should be fine, or you can change them out to a dense hardwood .
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If the frame is reasonably sound pretty much all other parts on a bandsaw can be made.
My bandsaw which was the first and only bandsaw I have ever owned had quite a bit ofdamage on it after a full century of use and was missing a lot of parts and in need of some serious safety upgrades.
It became a good industrial grade bandsaw in the end. Good enough for at least another century of professional use I rekon. It was just a matter of reading up and then doing the job.
Part timer living on the western coast of Finland. Not a native speaker of English
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